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WaterTight

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Went to a job 6 weeks ago. Very noisy hot tap (bathroom basin, combi.) No other taps making noise. Noise was pretty immense. Very deep, very loud, growling reverberation along pipe when tap beging used. Difficult to pin-point source of sound by listening as it seemed to manifest mainly under bath but logical conclusion was the tap at fault.

Now this is interesting...Chap said they'd had this problem before and a plumber changed over their taps. Then after a while it came back. That plumber never came back.

I opened up the tap and it all looked fine. Gave it a clean. Put it back together and ran it and the noise had gone. Told them I couldn't see much point in me doing anything else since it was working for time being. They called me back a few days later as it had started again.

I told them I'm swap the valves over from hot to cold (not sure if those bits are called valves, i forget, the piece you can remove that screws into the body and has a washer on the bottom end) ....and then see if a) the noise moved to cold b) the noise stayed on hot or c) it went away. Again it went away. This time a month has past. It's back. It's back on the hot again. So what to do?

Since it's only that tap that makes noise and since tinkering with it makes the noise go away for a while it must just be the tap right? But the whole tap has been changed before and the only thing I've not changed on it is the tap body itself (the base with spout.) Thoughts?:confused:
 
Are the taps correct pressure rating? Are they quality branded taps or Chinese rubbish?

Try PRVs in the supplies.
 
Not sure what make they are. Why would the pressue be too much on just the hot? And just the basin hot for that matter?

Two sets of taps have been installed on the basin and both times the hot makes this noise. Is a PRV really the next step?

I'd hate to charge for installing a PRV to find it came back again!
 
I deal with noisy taps all the time. most of the time a part of the tap cylinder is lose and needs changing.

Does the noise stop when the tap is fully open?
 
Its water hammer and can be very difficult to trace the source. It could be a loose jumper in the main stop tap, is this were you isolate the supply from as maybe this has the effect of stopping the noise for a while. Can you feel vibration in the tap itself or does it sound like its coming from the whole system?
Eco
 
Just had exactly the same problem on a basin hot tap. Took tap apart put back together and noise gone. Not confident of fix and expecting call back but if so will change the tap. This property didnt have a stop tap as such just a surestop then a gate valve. Surestop was passing quite a lot.Ceramic disc lever taps.
 
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From what you say you have not actually fitted a whole new hot tap - right? You've only fitted the old cold tap head into the old hot tap base.

I would first try using a good tap reseating tool to reseat the hot tap and also fit a new washer to the tap head to see if this cured the noise permanently. If not, fit a whole new hot tap (and a cold tap to match if you cannot get a matching hot tap.) Expensive!

An alternative to completely new taps is to fit a tap reviver (or a pair) to the existing tap base(s) (after reseating.) A much cheaper route.
 
Does the noise stop when the tap is fully open?
Actually yes! I've a feeling the noise does stop when the tap is fully open.. Pretty sure I noticed that. What would that mean?

It could be a loose jumper in the main stop tap, is this were you isolate the supply from as maybe this has the effect of stopping the noise for a while. Can you feel vibration in the tap itself or does it sound like its coming from the whole system?
Eco

I was taught that a loose jumper (do you mean washer or is that something else?) in the main stop tap would cause water hammer in all taps.. ? That's why I presume it had to be the hot tap itself. I suppose I could try turning down the stop tap a bit and see if that reduces it..? But if it does what would be the solution? A PRV straight after the stop tap? The fact that it can go away for a month after swapping the valves over in the taps makes me think the problem is with the taps not the pressue?

From what you say you have not actually fitted a whole new hot tap - right? You've only fitted the old cold tap head into the old hot tap base.

I would first try using a good tap reseating tool to reseat the hot tap and also fit a new washer to the tap head to see if this cured the noise permanently. If not, fit a whole new hot tap (and a cold tap to match if you cannot get a matching hot tap.) Expensive!

An alternative to completely new taps is to fit a tap reviver (or a pair) to the existing tap base(s) (after reseating.) A much cheaper route.

You're right that I've only fitted the cold tap head into the hot tap base. Thing is they had this exact problem before with a different set of taps so new taps have been tried already. And the problem has returned. It's not impossible that they've had two sets of defective taps. I do know they've been two different brands though. And the problem is always on the basin hot.

What confuses me is that mucking about with the tap made the sound go away for a month. I thought that implied it could only be the tap at fault? But then why did changing the taps and then swapping the heads over between the new taps not solve it? Or at least not for good?

Maybe a PRV is the next step? Or should I give reseating and tap-revival kit a go first? Even though this is set of taps number 2? Confuuuuuuuused.
 
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You can get a "devo universal conversion kit" they are pretty good. but then you have to use the tap heads that come with it.maybe you can buy the same tap again and just fit the cylinder (innards).
 
try taking the head out and turning the water back on gently we had something similar before and it was a chunk of old washer floating up and down the pipework
 
I did this on the one i went to took head off and slowly opened isolation valve. Didnt "notice" any debris, did seem to fix the problem.( For now anyway)!
 
Cheers for all the advice guys. Been thinking and have some ideas. What do you think of the following plan of action:

1. Turn tap to maxium noisiness and see if turning internal stopcock down a bit sorts it.

2. Failing that, remove headgear and run water for a good while (I tired this before but not for so long) to see if any debris comes out.

Knowing this tap, simply taking it apart and putting it back together will appear to have solved the prob at this stage. And so I can then say if it returns their options are to try (in order of cheapness) :

1. Tap revival kit
2. New taps

Problem being:

Having swapped the cold headgear into the hot tap and solved the prob for 1 month and these being taps number 2 with the same problem occuring on just the hot I can only suspect neither of these will be a solution. Which leaves a PRV (but why would the pressure only be excessive only on the basin hot?)

Do you think it's worth looking at the stop tap washer or am I right to think that since no other taps in the property make noise it can't be that?

And finally... would you be charging for these subsequent visits? I charged for the first call-out, not the second one. Technically I haven't solved the problem I charged for solving but I did solve it for a month and tried to rule things out by economical methods first..
 
Hi there - I just found this thread so joined the forum to ask whether the problem was ever resolved. I have exactly the same problem.

It isn't water hammer from elsewhere in the system. It's just a loud rasping vibration at the hot tap. I thought it was the water4 getting too hot, but it isn't. It happens at any temperature if I begin to close the tap a bit. Fully open and it doesn't seem to happen.

Thanks.
 
Hi -

it's the hot tap side of the kitchen mixer tap - nowhere else, and it is a vibration in the tap.

I have a Worcester 28i combi system.

I've taken it apart again and the internal screw mechanism does seem very slack. Maybe I just need some tap revivers?
 
Could just be a loose washer or worn washer

take the valve out and take it to a plumbers merchant to see if they have the washer

Or if you can find a manufacturer of the tap try contacting them
 
swapped hot and cold valves over? see if that makes a difference

Or buy a new tap they aren't bank breakers and it sounds like you can fit it yourself
 
yes, I tried swapping them over, and it makes a difference. Trouble is, the cold tap then sticks, for some reason.

Since I started asking about this, I have more or less become convinced it is down to a worn internal thread in the hot tap valve. As you say, might as well get new taps. Are there any tap revivers you'd recommend?

Thanks for the help.
 
try the manufacturer of the tap for a new valve as by swapping them over you have proven that this is the part at fault

I think Deva do a universal Tap reviver kit if you want to try that route
 
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