Noisy toilet pipes - can I fit new ballvalve myself?

[TraceyL]

Hi, I'm inexperienced with plumbing but keen to give it a go... also female so don't have man strength or many tools, but have a few! My toilet makes loud foghorn pipe noises after flushing that is resolved when I lift up the ballcock arm. I think the washer may need replacing (after googling it), but I think it might be easier for me to replace the whole ballcock/valve thing. Two questions: 1. is it easy enough for for an inexperienced (though very practical) person like me to tackle? 2. What tools will I need? I think I need a tool/spanner to undo the plastic nut underneath the cistern, anything else? Thanks for any help! I could call a plumber but I'd feel annoyed it it's a simple job that I could manage!

 

[Last Plumber]

If you think you're up to it.

You'll need to turn water off and empty the cistern, by flushing it and syphon the remaining water out or mop it out !

It should be obvious how to replace the part.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PLASTIC (if it is plastic ) NUT !
Clean the cistern inside (where the base of the valve will sit). don't forget the rubber washer.

Water on, check for leaks, fill cistern and set level of water !
Job done, Tea n Biscuits !

Sound simple ?

 

[TraceyL]

Thanks! I'll let you know how I get on... :wacko:

If you think you're up to it.

You'll need to turn water off and empty the cistern, by flushing it and syphon the remaining water out or mop it out !

It should be obvious how to replace the part.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PLASTIC (if it is plastic ) NUT !
Clean the cistern inside (where the base of the valve will sit). don't forget the rubber washer.

Water on, check for leaks, fill cistern and set level of water !
Job done, Tea n Biscuits !

Sound simple ?

 

[steadyon]

With a lack of experience, I'd recommend changing the washer rather than the whole valve, as, provided there is an isolation valve to the water inlet pipe, the whole job can be done without risk of disturbing existing seals. It may be possible to do the job with no tools beyond a screwdriver to turn of the isolation valve, although a pair of grips may be needed if the nuts have been over-tightened or have seized up.

1. Isolate water inlet to WC.
2. Remove cistern cover.
3. Work out how to remove washer and remove.
4. Take washer to plumber's merchants and get replacement
5. Fit new washer, tighten (hand probably enough or "hand and a nip") nuts
6. Restore water supply
7. Check and adjust fill level.

 

[TraceyL]

Thank you Steadyon. I've posted a picture on the unit below - sorry for ignorance, but I guess the washer would be on the right-hand side, underneath the arm, where there's a bit to untwist? I did try undoing it yesterday but it was very stiff and I was worried it would break. Would you recommend a particular tool to help get leverage on it?

Thanks for your advice!

With a lack of experience, I'd recommend changing the washer rather than the whole valve, as, provided there is an isolation valve to the water inlet pipe, the whole job can be done without risk of disturbing existing seals. It may be possible to do the job with no tools beyond a screwdriver to turn of the isolation valve, although a pair of grips may be needed if the nuts have been over-tightened or have seized up.

1. Isolate water inlet to WC.
2. Remove cistern cover.
3. Work out how to remove washer and remove.
4. Take washer to plumber's merchants and get replacement
5. Fit new washer, tighten (hand probably enough or "hand and a nip") nuts
6. Restore water supply
7. Check and adjust fill level.

 

[SimonG]

Grips/pump pliers.

 

[TraceyL]

Thank you SimonG

 

[Chalked]

Lyou will cure that balvalve without taking it out.

There is a threaded bar, just above the water line. This needs to be touching the side of the cystern. That will stabilise the valve and stop the water hammer.

 

[wiggers]

Tracy if your gonna replace it I would recommend a fluidmaster pro 45b fill valve as there is lot of room in your cistern for one. I change your type all the time sounds like a fog horn on a ship at 3am when you visit the loo waking the whole house up
Good luck

 

[Best]

That old ball valve you have is certainly fixable with a new standard part 2 diaphragm washer. But the large nut being horizontal can be a bit awkward. I have used a basin claw grip on the nut just below the large nut to remove the top of valve to work on it. Needs the bolt support touching the cistern as said.
If you have mains water supplying the valve and of a decent pressure, then that valve isn't very suitable IMO. As above post says, fit a Fluidmaster Pro 45b that has a brass tail.
Probably a job for a plumber tbh, - risky bit is connecting on to pipework and any washer seal there needs to be in good condition or brand new

 

[TraceyL]

Thanks everyone for your excellent suggestions. I'll try moving the threaded bit to touch the cistern first and see if that works. Really appreciate you all taking the time to help!

 

[gassafe]

I don't think moving the arm will help, easier to replace the valve for a permanent fix... depends if your good at DIY tho

 

[JCplumb]

Looking at that cistern I think a fluidmaster float would catch either on the sides or possibly on the syphon, the inlet hole is really close to the edge, something like a flomasta with a guarded float might be best.
Totally agree that a fluidmaster should go in if possible, but that looks pretty tight.

 

[TraceyL]

I don't think moving the arm will help, easier to replace the valve for a permanent fix... depends if your good at DIY tho

Thanks everyone for all your kind help and advice - pleased to report that I fitted the new ball valve this morning, all fine, easy job and took me less than an hour from start to finish, including reading and re-reading fitting instructions and having a cuppa midway! Chuffed that I did it, thanks to your good advice :wacko: