Not good practise but fitting isolation valves to heating pipes

[armyash]

Say you can't pipe up a rad for whatever reason but all the pipework leading to it is pretty much done and you are getting the system filled. is it ok to fit iso valves to the pipework waiting to be connected, only temporary.

Are normal iso valves ok to use?

 

[gassafe]

You could buy the full bore iso valves...

 

[TFGplumbing]

Well the world wont end, but the full bore ones are better

 

[Ermintrude]

Cap it then drain and connect valves leak.

 

[Ermintrude]

[DLMURL]https://vimeo.com/118307397[/DLMURL]

 

[armyash]

Capping it will do, will mean a bit more work but rather that than any problems.

Ermintrude, your video wouldn't play but I will take your advice of capping. thanks.

 

[armyash]

Was going to use full bore iso's as suggested, thanks. Just wasn't sure if there were any high temperature ones I might need.

 

[tamz]

Who says it is not good practice. More valves on a systemn is always better so forget that pysh.
Any iso will do, even the 75p ball ones providing the rad is small enough for the bore. They will never leak unless some clown dares to touch them at some time in the future.
Gate valves or full bore isos for bigger rads.

 

[Best]

Have to disagree on the cheap isolating valves, - they will leak eventually on hot pipes, even if untouched. I see them leaking everywhere & I hate them for any work. Probably the full flow isolating valves will not leak as they seem to have ptfe seals similar to lever valves. Far better full flow on pipes to more than one rad anyhow.
No point in putting valves on pipework unless they are essential and also going to be useable in the future IMO.
Valves would need to be above floors & accessible. I would prefer soldered connectors obviously, but a couple of brass stopends to get rest of system going & swap them onto brass connectors later would be my other choice.

 

[tamz]

I've honestly never come across a leaking iso that has never been touched but it could happen cos they are shyte.
Anything like this on heating you can't beat the old gate valve. It will work, its full bore, not effected by heat and they are cheap.

 

[AWheating]

most are only rated for hot and cold at 65 degrees as most stuff designed for hot and cold water is. As a temp they would be fine, as a perm valve i would avoid.

 

[Millsy 82]

Are you talking about just having the isos on there until you go back drain and finish off? If so why not put compression couplers and drain offs in them.

I have seen untouched ISO valves leak under floors so generally I would avoid leaving them on there and if they are going to stay then get some decent 1/4 turn full bore valves on it.

 

[WaterTight]

The ones with little handles on them seem not to leak. Or I've never seen one leak, although they are rarer so it could be a false assumption. I've seen loads of normal iso's leak on heating pipes (and everywhere else for that matter.)

Could always put on the ones with the handles, with handle behind pipe (if there's room) and remove handle with cranked screwdriver. Would just look like a chrome coupler. Or could use a brass iso with handle on normal copper which would look neater as more similar colours.

 

[LPC]

I definitely wouldn't put a ballaffix on a heating system. If you ever have to actually use it, it will leak eventually.

If I have to gate something off then I would only use a gate valve.

 

[R.Oak]

Ball o Fix valves will leak, more so when touched but cheap ones will leak anyway, ive seen it before when lifting boards. I would cap it and drain down when you go back.

 

[SimonG]

Gate valves.

 

[lame plumber]

push fit cap end on riser, unpressure system and slap on the rad, despite Tamz swearing isos are ok, I have seen too many weeping to bother with that game.

 

[WaterTight]

Has anyone ever been called to a dripping tap or the like, found out isolating water will be a pain or involve draining/bungs and so taken a punt on an iso, seen it leak, turned it back off hoping, see it continue to leak and then said to the customer, "You've actually got two leaks, I've just spotted this leaking, look..."

Because I haven't.

 

[kay-jay]

Has anyone ever been called to a dripping tap or the like, found out isolating water will be a pain or involve draining/bungs and so taken a punt on an iso, seen it leak, turned it back off hoping, see it continue to leak and then said to the customer, "You've actually got two leaks, I've just spotted this leaking, look..."

Because I haven't.

If you keep spinning it with a screwdriver you can quite often get it to seal again. Not always though.

 

[dancinplumba]

Pull head with grips if you can, sometimes works

 

[armyash]

Who says it is not good practice. More valves on a systemn is always better so forget that pysh.
Any iso will do, even the 75p ball ones providing the rad is small enough for the bore. They will never leak unless some clown dares to touch them at some time in the future.
Gate valves or full bore isos for bigger rads.

I have been told not to put iso's on if it can be helped but i am starting to realise that a lot of what i get told is peoples preference and how they want me to work. I personally would use them if needed.

 

[cr0ft]

I've used them on a couple of nightmare systems where we fill up and discover a leak on a soldered joint on the bottom of the system last thing in the day. Cut the pipes live with a wetvac over it and slip on a full-bore isolation valve, tighten and isolate (taking any pressure off first though and bunging system if appropriate). One of them plus turning off the relevant rad valve on the other side isolates the leaking joint and you can dry out the section of pipe and repair the bugger of a leak without draining down fully.

Sometimes you get leaks when the pipes warm up that pressure testing doesn't find Usually at 5pm at night!!

 

[Deleted member 64964]

Ballys on heating systems with regular expansion and contraction leak around the screw head so not a good idea.