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WaterTight

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Not done this before but need to do tomorrow.

Know about regs (1/8th of depth, 7% from supports etc..)

I was thinking two cuts with recriprocating saw then knock on out centre with wood chisel?
 
the recommended method is to drill 2 holes then saw down and along to create a U shape rather than a 3 sided square hole (if that makes sense) apparently having round holes as the corners ( haha even that doesnt make sense) instead of right angles causes less stress to the timber, but im only a plumber so i usually saw down 2 cuts and whack it with the hammer, which usually skelps a massive bit out of the back of the joist:eek:
 
circular saw ,then wood chisel,rember in late eighties a team of fitters on price had a petrol chain saw ,they were fast,but house was a bit smoky,but they earnrt the money and i suppose it was before all this health and safety b*****cks
 
the recommended method is to drill 2 holes then saw down and along to create a U shape rather than a 3 sided square hole (if that makes sense) apparently having round holes as the corners ( haha even that doesnt make sense) instead of right angles causes less stress to the timber,

That's fine if you're on a day rate,then you could even sand the notch down:)
 
Well either my reciprocating saw is pants (which since it's the exact same one my old boss used - ryobi - without issue is unlikely,) the blades that came with it are pants or I am pants.

It just kept bending the blades. Had to do most of work with chisel and hammer.

I have heard that dewalt demolition blades are good. might invest in some.
 
If you are using a recip saw use the blades with the big teeth.

Personally i use a rip snorter (circular) set to the correct depth and knock them out with my Estwing multi tool.
A sharp hand saw is quick too but if it takes more than 3 strokes a cut bin it and nick the joiners saw:)
 
A reciprocating saw is hard work for cutting floorboards,as you found out the blades bend pretty easily. I struggled with one for a while until I got a cordless circular saw. it's much easier,I only use the recip saw when cutting close to walls now.
 
Recip tools are very useful for the right application. Notching aint one of them.

The fein (and bosch-alike) tool is fine, but won't be as quick as a skill/rip saw.

As said, skill saw, then chisel. To be honest most of the time, you only have to wedge the chisel in, wiggle it and the lump of wood cracks out whole. Then tidy it up with the chisel. Don't run them too deep (as I often did when I first started cutting them) and don't run them through the middle of a room (as a mate of mine did, which meant the whole floor bounced, and was basically knackered).

There are loads of set rules laid out in books. This amount of depth in this size joist and this far from the edge....blah...blah...blah.

Who gets a text book out to cut a notch!? Just use your common sense.
 
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