Outside Tap Help

[stred]

Hi all,

Hope you can understand these questions,

I would like to fit an outside tap on the back of my house, but the only pipe work near the location is where i have my boiler fitted.

How would i determine which is the main feed? I have included a photo of the pipe work from the boiler if that helps. Would arrow 'A' be the mains that I would need to take the feed from?

If it is would it be best to unscrew fitting arrow 'B' and installing a T-fitting, then a isolating valve, to a piece of 15mm copper pipe then to the outside tap?

Also is it necessary to fit a sleeve in the wall to protect the pipe?, one last thing, is it best to have the tap fitted without any exposed pipe i.e. tap fitted where exit pipe in wall, (pipe in back of tap)?

Thank you for any comments, appreciate your time.

stred

 

[Mike Jackson]

Yes to most of your questions except the outside pipe. It doesn't hurt to have copper exposed externally. It's best to have it dropping to the tap externally or fit a drain off at the low point so you can empty the pipe in winter to stop it freezing. You also need to fit a double check valve internally after the stop tap.

Finally your existing installation is in breach of the water regulations, technically the filling loop should be removed after filling the system although most people seem to ignore this.

 

[Winston]

I find when fitting a outside tap to use the wall plate for the tap with the pipe already connected easiest, and as already said double check valve and isolation valve required. 12 wraps of ptfe on the tap thread, job done.

 

[stred]

Thank guy's appreciate your comments,

You mention fitting a double check valve in the installation; I have noticed that the filling loop I intend to run the tap from has a double check valve & isolating ball valve in it.
Can I use this instead of buying a separate one? Surely if I have to buy another one wont the pressure be reduced somewhat with two of these check valves installed? Or should I buy a tap with a check valve built in instead?
One other thing, would you recommend solder joints over compression joints? And what is the rule of thumb for tightening of compression joints?

Thanks for your time.

stred

 

[obseen16]

if you know how to solder properly and neatly then do it that way, i hate compression joints and hardly ever use them, i swear by soldered joints, ya cant beat em.

if it was me i would be teeing off for my outside tap before the filling loop. I.E well above the arrow A and put a nrv on the branch for the outside tap thus not affecting pressure to anywhere. and yes a sleave is reccommended it might even be compulsary but if have to check that. But i have seen places where no sleave has been used but personally i always sleave my pipe when going through masonry. better safe than sorry me ole chum. enjoy

ooh and dont forget to put an isolation valve on the supply for winter times.

 

[Bernie2]

You want a double check on both the boiler fill point and on the tap. You can of course get taps with a double check built in. But if they freeze outside there is a good chance it will damage the double check valve.

Also if you fit the double;e check valve inside you can usually let air into the pipe feeding the outside tap if you have fitted it to be self emptying like Mike says. The thing is, a column of water will hold in the pipe unless you let air in to allow it to empty.