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Discuss part 2 ball valve in loft in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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Jennie

Gas Engineer
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283
Hi all,
I'm off to fix an overflowing loft tank this week. I'll be taking a new Part 2 FOV with me.
Just wondering... would you bother fiddling round to replace the diaphram/washer/etc, or just cut to the chase and install a new FOV? After all, they're so cheap.
Thanks again for your advice,
Jennie
 
Usually I'd just replace it, although sometimes it easier to split the old one inside the tank and put a new front on it.
 
If the old valve outwardly looks in good order I would consider just changing the washer (old type or part 2). The old hp ball valves often are better quality than the new scrap valves & worth fixing if it's only a wee washer.
In fairness though, if you tell a customer you fitted a brand new ballvalve, then they will think it worth more than a repair, plus you could charge a couple pounds extra for the valves cost.
 
If the old valve outwardly looks in good order I would consider just changing the washer (old type or part 2). The old hp ball valves often are better quality than the new scrap valves & worth fixing if it's only a wee washer.
In fairness though, if you tell a customer you fitted a brand new ballvalve, then they will think it worth more than a repair, plus you could charge a couple pounds extra for the valves cost.
And sit there for an hr to get your moneys worth rofl
 
One other point that may sway your decision - your scrap brass pile will get heavier if you replace the ball valve! :smile:
 
As I hate the throwaway society we live in I will always replace washer and seat if brass and change for brass if its a nasty plastic part 3.

The more we throw away the more we contribute to the mass production of cheaply made tat that only lasts two minutes.
 
As I hate the throwaway society we live in I will always replace washer and seat if brass and change for brass if its a nasty plastic part 3.

The more we throw away the more we contribute to the mass production of cheaply made tat that only lasts two minutes.

Correct, - unless the valve is rotted or ancient & worn out, then it's fixable & in a few minutes.
Sadly that's the new way to do things, - throw it out & charge more for an easy job!
I usually fix things, but people don't understand.
 
Look at the old hand made 50's and 60's kitchens still going strong, while a nasty new kitchen collapses in on itself and soon as you close a cupboard door, when fitting a kitchen I find myself having to waste time beefing everything up to give it half a chance for making it to the 5 year mark.
 
Replace the whole fitting, customer is paying for the new fitting. Any scrap is a bonus, obviously not much on one float valve, but add it all up and happy days, if you can be bothered to sort it and store it until Scrap yard day.
 
I usually fix the old stopcocks in attics. They are on average about 50 or 60 years old or more & like new. Just a new 3/4" tap washer & grease the packing & good for perhaps many more decades.
 
I always replace, but replace only from the nut part inside the cistern so if any leaks it will be internal saves legging it up the stairs and into the loft to check for leaks when turning water back on, if there is a service valve I will change all
 
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