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Does reaming out the pipe after the little burr that the circular pipe slicers leave make much difference to the flow of gas or water? Is it worth doing at all?
 
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I always deburr the inside of the pipe after using a pipeslice as it must be 1-2 mm restriction, not sure how much differance this makes but I've always done it. More important to deburr the outside if cutting using a hacksaw though
 
i've found that i get less intrusion into the pipe diameter when i use my adjustable pipe cutter rather than pipe slice. as said always ream pipes when cutting with a hacksaw.
 
I've only cut with the pipe slice, not used a hacksaw. Just worried as I've just heard that with the inner lip, it can cause turbulant water and over time pin hole leaks. Is this right? Is it likely?
 
If you don't debur the pipe, tiny little pieces of copper can come loose from the cut pipe end and find their way into showers, taps, pumps etc. and cause problems.

You should always debur copper pipe before inserting it into a push fit fitting to prevent damage to the O ring.
 
Any restriction in a pipe will affect flow to some degree. The Monument adjustable cutters had a projection specifically for deburring after cutting.
 
Having thought about it, perhaps the flow of the solder might smooth over that anyway? I'll make a test peice and take a look inside it.
 
Monument and rothenburger pipe cutters have deburrers thing is they dont work unless you've 20 minute to spare on each joint, wether you debur or not wont make the slightest difference
 
on a hiking holiday in germany i went for a walk around a big national park. At the entrance a park warden was handing out safety instructions to all the walkers....... "watch out for de-burr" he kept saying.

How did he know i was a plumber?? clever man.:)
 
Burr! with me please, we are trying to talk about flow restriction not going for a walk. How can leaving a ridge inside a pipe make no difference to flow? Better throw all our frictional head resistance calculators away if it doesn't. :smilewinkgrin:
 
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I think it makes a much bigger difference on microbore. Use an 8 or 10 mm slice and compare the end of the pipe. Use the tip of a round file to remove this burr and you Will be surprised how big and therefore restrictive the burr is..

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i agree with microbore there is a much greater restriction. although on larger diameter pipes there will still be a certain amount of restriction because the water will be "caught" by the burr causing an eddying effect as it passes through fittings. which it is better to bend rather than use a inordinate amount of elbows, each one which adds half a meter equilivant to the total length of the pipe run.not trying to teach granny to suck eggs here just typing as i'm thinking.
 
I never de-bur pipework except on the rare occasion of using a pipe spring. The end of your footprints are very handy for this.
 
I've taken the attitude that if I bothered with little things like that I'd never finish a job or be home in time for supper.

Perhaps I'm wrong but if a tiny piece ain't coming off with a finger nail I'm not going to fish inside my toolbox to find yet another tool to fiddle for a minute detail.

If it was that important I'd be questioning whether one was using the correct size of pipe in the first place.

Each to their own though. I'm not saying it's wrong to cut this piece off, but as far as I'm concerned I've more important things to worry about, like burnt suppers or losing it to the dog.
 
I totally agree with you dontknowitall. The fact that you are dealing with a cut pipe means you are making a joint of some sort that will create a discontinuity and so turbulence anyway. The burr is going to add only a miniscule amount so why waste time doing something that no-one is ever going to notice or give you credit for?
 
the only time i ream pipes really is with solvent weld waste where a small amount of swarf would trap hair and other gunk leading to a blockage in the future.
 
The problem is we should all be doing it but you can't be competitive if you spend too much time on this sort of thing. I know it's supposed to reduce the flow, particularly on gas but if you do your calculations by the book there's enough leeway built in that it's not a problem.
 
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