Potterton Gold 28 | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Potterton Gold 28 in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.

goz666

Gas Engineer
Messages
551
Just had my mates dad on the phone his PG is playing up again, it was new in 2008 and unfortunately for him must be a friday afternoon boiler, he's had two new fans and a new pump since then.
Problem, he says when he opens a hot water tap the green light on the boiler comes on, but when he shuts the tap off the demand light stays on and so doesn't revert back to central heating so hes getting up to a cold house some mornings. He fit this himself his last ever job, he's now 75 and was a plumber all his life, I commissioned it in 2008 and did the electrics for him. Any ideas before I go and have a look, it sounds like a flow switch sticking to me but am wondering if its a known problem and a quick fix ??
 
It does sound like the switch is sticking goz666 ... If it's the one I'm thinking of, same as Baxi105 HE, You can get a service kit for the flow switch. :)

If it's the same as the Duotec then it'll be the integral magnet (Forgotten the bleedn' name) sticking... NOT the plastic external sensor ... :) ......... Sheeesh! My memory :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
its a hall effect sensor probably got debris in it or its knackerd
 
Cheers fellas, is the Hall effect sensor just a clip on ?? Just quickly checked the manual online and it sits on top of the Hydraulic inlet and restrictor, Could cleaning the filter in the restrictor solve it or is it likely to be the sensor that needs replacing ??
 
Cheers fellas, is the Hall effect sensor just a clip on ?? Just quickly checked the manual online and it sits on top of the Hydraulic inlet and restrictor, Could cleaning the filter in the restrictor solve it or is it likely to be the sensor that needs replacing ??
cleaning it may work,its normally the read switch under it that fails
 
Ee, i am glad your back g man, things seem more, some how, peaceful and relaxing :)
 
Cheers fellas, is the Hall effect sensor just a clip on ?? Just quickly checked the manual online and it sits on top of the Hydraulic inlet and restrictor, Could cleaning the filter in the restrictor solve it or is it likely to be the sensor that needs replacing ??

It's the switch within the water flow as mentioned. Isolate the CWS and undo. They can sometimes be a wee bit tight :)
 
Job turned sour today, went to my supplier before I went up to the job and got a Hall effect sensor just in case. Got to the job and mates dad says this is what its doing.....he opened the DHW tap and sure enough it worked ok, then when he shut it off it stayed in CH mode.

I ran through the manual and decided to check the sensor and clean the restrictor out anyway. Took the sensor and pump off, put the spanner on the top of the restrictor and ping the top broke straight off. Removed the Hydraulic block and inside plastic spinner had almost disintegrated and the whole unit was blocked with scale.

Tried to remove the bottom of the restrictor but due to heat its welded together internally. So.....I have a new Hydraulic block on order and to top it off when I was in the suppliers this afternoon one of the Housing assoc lads said it wont be the restrictor or sensor causing that mate it will be the diverter head so now am not sure if my new part is causing the initial fault ???
 
Last edited:
it will be not be the diverter it will be the knackerd part on t6he RH side under the hall effect sensor
 
it will be not be the diverter it will be the knackerd part on t6he RH side under the hall effect sensor

I hope so mate, I could tell there had been a lot of heat round that area the out side of the Hydraulic unit had tarnished with heat, when i get it tomorrow I will put a pic on of where its snapped and the heat damage.
 
I hope so mate, I could tell there had been a lot of heat round that area the out side of the Hydraulic unit had tarnished with heat, when i get it tomorrow I will put a pic on of where its snapped and the heat damage.

Well, I went back to this job and replaced the Hydraulic block. Up to now I haven't had any call back to it so presume all is ok. On start up the customer tried the boiler a few times then said o me that it's not doing what it did before which was when the DHW was turned off the temperature gauge on his boiler for DHW would rapidly climb to 96degs then fall down again slowly, he hadn't told me this beforehand but its stopped doing it...I suspect it was a blockage...any thoughts ???
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

J
According to the manual it’s 5 & 6 for CH...
Replies
1
Views
572
Deleted member 120897
D
Excellent thank you for taking the time to...
Replies
10
Views
2K
Deleted member 120897
D
  • Question
I forgot to say. All our radiator thermostats...
Replies
4
Views
2K
Could be cavitation if the header tank only a...
Replies
3
Views
2K
Replies
4
Views
2K
Back
Top