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Discuss Potterton Gold E133 Fault in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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goz666

Gas Engineer
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Checked Condense, Ignition electrodes etc etc, have got open circuit on EV2 coil on the gas valve, any thoughts or should I just go buy a new one. Or is it possible to just buy new coils and if so wheres cheapest ? Many thanks....goz.
 
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I'm not sure you can replace the coils on a new premix valve. I stand to be corrected but I've never done it. They all seem one piece. Replaced plenty of old ones on Ultimates Profiles Classics though.
 
Ye, you can replace them, it's the single brass pozi screw on the front. I've never actually changed just the coils though.
 
Checked Condense, Ignition electrodes etc etc, have got open circuit on EV2 coil on the gas valve, any thoughts or should I just go buy a new one. Or is it possible to just buy new coils and if so wheres cheapest ? Many thanks....goz.

have you clipped on to the inlet,reset and noted pressures?,because any weakness on a meter governor and a premix will find it
 
Reyt, it was a RGI mate of mine who rang me late last night about this boiler, tried to guide him on the phone got so far and told him I would ask on here about the gas valve. Anyway I went today and looked at it myself, changed the ignition electrode boiler fired up perfect. That will teach me for trying to diagnose over the phone, cheers lads.
 
They are terrible for it, the ignition probe goes soft and bends together thus giving a crap or no spark. On thw most recent one I changed i noticed they had changed the design of them.
 
They are terrible for it, the ignition probe goes soft and bends together thus giving a crap or no spark. On thw most recent one I changed i noticed they had changed the design of them.

I might've spoke too soon yet mate shes just told me it's gone off E133 once tonight !!
 
I had this fault before. Its a nightmare, I wish I could remember what it was. Electrode lead not got any breaks in it? Spark generator doing its job? Trap not full of muck?
 
I checked the condense trap and cleaned it out, meter is a normal meter, gets 120v dc from the spark generator I checked. I have a spark plug tester here I didn't have it with me today but if I have to go back will take it with me. I know what you mean by a nightmare fault, one of them boilers you really need to work on regularly to get used to them, I only see a few of these and the baxis/mains every now and again. Baxi are only ten minutes from me but Biasi and Ravenheat I see most of.
 
I meant could the condense pipe be blocked, when you arrived to change the electrode it had drained hence it fired up, the run for a bit and backed up causing e133?
 
I meant could the condense pipe be blocked, when you arrived to change the electrode it had drained hence it fired up, the run for a bit and backed up causing e133?

Don't think so Dave it goes straight to an open drain, wasn't frozen and is in 32mm. I didn't pour anything down because whoever fit it has left no room to pour down, if I did would probs have to use a tube to suck water in and then tip in. It's a possibility though so if I go back will syphon some water through.
 
Clean electrodes I should fit £1 between them 4.6mm

Take off door put towel over you head and get it to ignighte u will see spark.
 
There's a couple of other things to check. They flame sensing probe is also subject to warping, so check that and change it if it is bent. Check the gas valve is set up correctly, use your fga and adjust the gas valve as required. Check the gas valve coils, you should get a resistance between the bottom pin and top and bottom and one from top.

I had a faulty new ignition electrode the other day, it was arcing in the ceramic. You could see it flashing where it passed through the combustion chamber door. Check all that. Plus condense pipe.
 
Actually, confirm which pins you need to test with Baxi tec because the guy from there the other day has either got confused or has told me the wrong information. I've just tested one and found it was bottom pin to top was 7.12 kohms and bottom to one from bottom about 8.
 
Electrodes ok?
Condi trap clear?
Minimum 14mb working pressure at boiler (when all other gas appliances in use)?
High/Low CO% in range?
Gas valve compensate tube not kinked or burst?
Check NTC resistance range in spec?
 
You said the bottom coil was in open line when you tested it? Surely that's your fault?
 
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