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ben5192

Gas Engineer
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Hi Guys im looking for some advice on this boiler, been out to it not firing
fan runs,
checked aps pipes, brass joiner blown through and clear blow in to pipewhich triggers switch in aps
continues to spark but no gas


is there a way to test aps furter or am ibarking up wrong tree
thanking you
 
if its sparking its not aps A is there gas in the building B Is there voltage at the gas valve
 
its lpg and there is gas to bottom of valve but not through it
the aps only operates if i manually blow through it - no sparking unless i blow through it
but then still wont ignite just sparks
 
Careful with them. Positive pressure boiler!
The grommet seals on base are obsolete I believe and most will have shrunk and potentially be blowing combustion gasses out.
I have shut down a handful of them over last few months for various housing contracts.
 
when case on and fan running i cant feel any air anywhere around casing or grommets, fan seems to be causing good pressure when remove cover slightly
 
its lpg and there is gas to bottom of valve but not through it
the aps only operates if i manually blow through it - no sparking unless i blow through it
but then still wont ignite just sparks

Also, check the pilot injector and pilot tube are not blocked.
 
when case on and fan running i cant feel any air anywhere around casing or grommets, fan seems to be causing good pressure when remove cover slightly
Put a lit match under the seals if it blows out seals are gone. Make sure seals have not been doctored with silicone!
 
so basically im barking up the wrong tree:sosp:,
im pretty sure all seals are good i knew its positive pressure so its one of the things ive checked 3 times
just seems odd that from only having fan on, blow aps then goes to spark but nothin else bloke is trying to sell the house so doesnt want to buy a new boiler either
 
Potterton say you can make minor repairs to grommits with high temperature silicone mind
 
Pcb known to fail on those. Capacitors fail on PCB. Can be bought cheaply on ebay (£30 or so quid for PCB)
 
I'd ensure the fan has not got too much gunge on the blades, this can reduce speed and prevent it from acting onthe aps. Lubricate it if necessary and make sure the flue way / heat exchanger is clear.Are you getting 240 volts at fan? Is resistance across the fan ok? After that it must be the APS.
ss the fan ok?
 
Last edited:
If voltage to gas valve then it's valve. If not then pcb . ?

Had this on a more than 15 years old Glow Worm: PCB was sending right voltage to the gas valve – no pilot light though. Thought, before I spend 200 quid on a new gas valve, let’s check the pilot tube. Took the tube off, tried to blow – no luck. OK, you can start laughing now, I gave it a good suck… some black gunk popped out of the tube, yuck metallic taste… I was spitting for the rest of the day… The pilot injector (two tiny holes) was blocked too, some crud got collected over the years. Replaced the lot and happy days!
 
Sounds like you have two faults going. If it wont spark until you blow into the APS then you have an air flow problem. Check the inner flue integrity, case seals etc as if any are gone it will reducer the fan pressure. It could just be the APS which I believe is obsolete? Then the sparking and no gas is a different fault, could be a blocked pilot tube as suggested if the gas valve is getting the right voltage. If not then the solenoid could have failed causing the valve to not open.
 
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