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Discuss Price to change a Honeywell 2 port actuator in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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armyash

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Hi

Had a request from a customer to change the actuator on their 2 port valve. Apparently already been diagnosed, they get HW if they keep it in the manual position, I said I prefer to change the whole thing but will obvioulsy take longer, they said just change the actuator. - Fine by me, i'm not going to argue with people if they insist.

What price would you charge for this, i'm thinking £45 + parts. It's one that can be swapped with no draining.

Thanks
 
Hi

Had a request from a customer to change the actuator on their 2 port valve. Apparently already been diagnosed, they get HW if they keep it in the manual position, I said I prefer to change the whole thing but will obvioulsy take longer, they said just change the actuator. - Fine by me, i'm not going to argue with people if they insist.

What price would you charge for this, i'm thinking £45 + parts. It's one that can be swapped with no draining.

Thanks

It's the low end, but ok. If you can get them to supply it. Just in case it's been miss diagnosed, then you can walk away.
 
About £20 too cheap for my taste but if you're happy and they're happy then it's a win!
 
Bang on mate, I'd change the whole thing regardless, bung it and on a good day be done in 30 min bad day drain down fill up done in an hour tops.
 
Ok

I haven't actually given a price yet. I know it's the Honeywell with the 'bump' on the casing so don't need to drain to just change the head. I will let them know once changed if the problem persists, and i need to do more then there will be additional charges.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Okay why change the head why not just change the motor? Answer because it doesn't always work, just change the whole thing, tiny amount more in labour and gauranteed to sort the problem 1st time.
 
It's only a few wires. Should be very easy if it has all been installed fairly well.
Honeywell motorised valves disappoint me. Very poorly made inside, when you take them to bits. Teeth wear.
 
Okay why change the head why not just change the motor? Answer because it doesn't always work, just change the whole thing, tiny amount more in labour and gauranteed to sort the problem 1st time.

That's how I prefer it done. I will suggest that when I am there
 
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Those five core clip connecter thingy from region are just the job for these swaps.
Ash just change what you've been asked to, it's risk free then. Not your fault either way, I'm always suspicious of people who have had a previous diagnosis. Why aren't they doing it?
 
Those five core clip connecter thingy from region are just the job for these swaps.
Ash just change what you've been asked to, it's risk free then. Not your fault either way, I'm always suspicious of people who have had a previous diagnosis. Why aren't they doing it?

Because they have diagnosed it themselves because hey plumbing is easy right.......
 
I normally feel how loose the spindle is, if its all tight & the valve body looks old I recommend changing the body as its going to knacker the new head putting it on a seized valve... But it's there choice at the end of the day...

Has anyone ever just undone the 4 little nuts & changed the gubbins & ball on these valves? I always wonder if its worth a shot when the pipework looks tight?
 
I'm always suspicious of people who have had a previous diagnosis. Why aren't they doing it?

This is always where I feel doubtful. Am I doing some poor bugger out of work after he spent time diagnosing the fault? Or is the customer a google warrior who will then blame me if his diagnosis is wrong.

Ash - before you do anything mate, either get your meter out and confirm the diagnosis, or put it in writing that as you are only following their instructions, and haven't made the diagnosis, you can't guarantee a successful outcome.
 
I have had a few customers who have phoned me and I can tell how they are being that they want me to go and have a look and tell them what needs doing so they can either do it themselves or use my info to shop around for the cheapest quote. Not happening for maintenance tasks.

I now inform them that if I am coming out it's not a call out charge but i wont be telling them what's wrong unless I am doing the work - if that makes sense. Especially if it's more than a few miles. I had a guy 10 miles from me in January phone me up and he actually said he wants me to go and have a look so i can tell him what was wrong, i said to him "do you want me to come and sort it out?" (it was a wc blockage) he ummed and aaahed and i said to him politely look i think i know what the problem is from what you have said but i cant confirm anything without seeing it. If i come from mine to yours it will be to do the work, he understood and it was straight forward as i expected.
 
£60 plus VAT for me which would include diagnosis on site before changing it. They would be supplying the valve head as we only stock Danfoss ones.
 
I only do free quotes on installs. Boiler diagnostics are chargeable, end of. I can sit at home and not get payed.

If more plumbers thought like this (like business people) our trade would be much more valued than it is imo.

Unfortunately too many tradespeople are terrible business people!!
 
£50 to get in the van then your hourly rate plus mileage and materials
 
At some point everyone experiments with charging properly for doing a good job. Invariably you end up earning more for less hassle. Being cheap to gain customers and experience is fine but don't make it a lifelong habit.
 
At some point everyone experiments with charging properly for doing a good job. Invariably you end up earning more for less hassle. Being cheap to gain customers and experience is fine but don't make it a lifelong habit.

Agreed, when someone comes along who's really cheap. It makes an arse of us all.
 
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