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Discuss Problems with central heating in the Central Heating Forum area at Plumbers Forums

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Pagie1980

Bit of a long story this one not ideal for xmas eve / morning. I have a gas central heating system with a boiler behind the fire downstairs. The hot water tank which was ancient was leaking so my mate who is a plumber replaced the tank. A few days later this started leaking. And some of the water got onto the switch master 3 way valve which then started sticking. So the tank was changed once again as it seemed to be an issue with the tank new tank. Since then things haven't been right I've had to manually switch the 3 way valve and a week or so ago noticed the 2nd new tank was leaking again. So my mates been back and today changed the tank once again. And also this time changed the 3 way valve to a Honeywell model. Well literally just now with both the heating and water switched to off the boiler behind the fire was still on. I found this strange so went to check out the tank and its mad hot. The water has obviously still been heating. The cylinder stat is probably not working at a guess. Or for some reason the boiler is carrying on boiling. I've isolated the boiler now and emptied all the hot water from the tank which was scalding. Once the water was cool again and with the boiler isolated I noticed the central heating pump was still pumping. So I've turned all electrics off now. Now I've heard of wiring differences when switching from switch master to Honeywell. Could it be that something is wired wrong which is causing the boiler to continue. The cylinder stat not to work. And the pump to continue. Greatful for any info at all. It's worrying me as my partners 8 year old son is in the room with the hot water tank. Many thanks in advance.

Stephen.
 
tbh as you have said it could be a wiring fault or it could be the stat i know its not the best thing you want to hear but best to get a heating eng out

does the cylinder get warm when you just have the heating on ?
 
Thanks for the reply. To be honest not sure once he'd finished and it seemed to be working I was happy it was up and running again. Obviously at this time of day it's not ideal ! I'm scared to turn any of it back in now. What could happen if the hot water keeps boiling ? He'd also put a new stat in the tank today. Where would I find a heating eng and at what cost ?
 
Most people will charge silly money today, that's if they even come out...
 
Yeah my mate that fitted it is going to come back and check the wiring again. Was wondering if anyone on here would know how to wire it. The original switch master was 5 wires and the new Honeywell is 6. I've found loads of info on how to switch. But he'd already disconnected the old one so its too late to see where that was wired too !
 
Firstly. They're two different types of manufacturers.
If replacing would be easier to get the same as they don't operate the same direction to open / closed,once installed and wired with colours and locations.
 
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Are you sure the valve has been fitted the correct way round?
It should be "a" to radiators and "b" to hot water.
 
Firstly. They're two different types of manufacturers.
If replacing would be easier to get the same as they don't operate the same direction to open / closed,once installed and wired with colours and locations.

Thanks. I don't believe you can still get the switch mater anymore.
 
Are you sure the valve has been fitted the correct way round?
It should be "a" to radiators and "b" to hot water.

image.jpg

Yes as far as I know upto the hot water and down to the heating
 
If boiler keeps running it must be getting a power supply from something, need to rewire system, difficult to make out what it is without being on site think you will find it was the switch master that had 6 wires , Honeywell has 5.
 
Thanks. Yes seems to be the case. If the boiler is connected to a permanent live though should the thermostats not still shut it off ? Sorry you may be right re the wiring. To be honest I'm absolutely a waste of space with any sort of diy ! Thanks everyone for your help on this matter.
 
As Massod has suggested, download the wiring guide and get him to completely rewire it
Should only take him 20 mins
You could download the conversion diagram, but I suspect he wont remember where the original wires went, so best to do as above
 
Problem is electrical. If you don't have 10 point wiring centre, go buy one, download Honeywell guide as Masood has said and wire accordingly. It is possible that contact points on cylinder stat. have fused together, if so this is easily determined once wiring is displayed in an orderly manner.
 
SWITCHMASTER HONEYWELL

RED &
ORANGE -----------TO ------------ ORANGE (Note that Red & Orange must be linked together)

WHITE -------------TO ------------ GRAY

YELLOW --------- TO ------------ WHITE

BLUE ----------- TO -------------- BLUE

GREEN ------- TO --------------- GREEN Think your plumber has wired new valve wrong
 
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Thanks I've saved it to my phone fingers crossed will keep you posted
 
He's been back and rewired it from scratch so fingers crossed ! Thanks for all your help everyone really appreciated
 
I'm just wondering where the cylinder is leaking from. Surely the prv should release pressure when it gets to high. Also, if its a gravity system the F&E should be checked up in your loft. If its an unvented mains system the expansion vessels should be checked. Even if its a wiring problem the cylinder should definitely not start leaking. Please let us know what the outcome was! We're all very curious!
 
Cylinders prv...???
 
Yes spanner. The Pressure Relief Valve(or in the case of Tempest a P&T relief valve) fitted on an unvented cylinder to relieve pressure in case of a buildup.
 
OHOOOOOO....
But you wanna be wobble careful about this and get yourself a G3 in there if you're not sure about anything.
And it could be the system drained and refilled!
A to the Cylinders air gap in the dome!
And I hope I'm telling you Somethings wrong ere...!
But I'm going to opt out now
And hopefully catch you on the other side of Friday and 2016.
Happynuyaaaaa..
 
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