Re arranging waste pipes

[Serval]

currently working on my bathroom refurb and am after some advice on how best to go about re arranging the following:

Starting from the top:

The sink waste is solvent welded but i can reuse it in its current position

I want to move the toilet to the adjacent wall so id need to move the branch through 90 degrees, can i just twist this round to the required position?

The bidet is being removed permanently
I want to run the shower waste under the floor boards.

The existing shower waste is solvent welded into the branch.
The bidet waste is push fit.

Can i cut an cap off the shower below floor board level and re-use the push fit socket from the bidet for the shower? Its a slightly smaller pipe (40mm)

 

[exedon2]

Turning the junction for the WC will depend on how it was originally assembled may move easily you may finish up having to cut through soil pipe higher up re hash and use a slip socket to re assemble.
I personally prefer solvent waste under floors if you using push fit make sure it's well supported.
By the way it's a wash hand basin not a sink you wash pots in a sink!

 

[Ric2013]

Can i cut an cap off the shower below floor board level and re-use the push fit socket from the bidet for the shower? Its a slightly smaller pipe (40mm)

If it's a push-in connexion, do secure or block it so it cannot possibly be forced out by pressure in the pipe. Or you'll always wonder - is it going to come out by itself?

If what you mean is you intend to reduce from 1.5" to 1.25" pipe just before that SVP then while you CAN, prehaps you oughtn't. If it ever blocks, then I hope you have considered how you are going to access it. More practically, it seems a silly thing to do when you may find the socket can be converted to accept 1.5" pipe by changing an insert or something. If, on the other hand, you just mean the socket is ring sealed and accepts PP push fit and not ABS/mPVC solvent weld pipe (which is slightly larger diameter) then just buy a solvent or compression to pushfit adapter and crack on.

Sorry to be vague, but the various ways of measuring the metric sizes confuse me so I generally think of waste pipe in inches and materials rather than mm.

 

[Serval]

Turning the junction for the WC will depend on how it was originally assembled may move easily you may finish up having to cut through soil pipe higher up re hash and use a slip socket to re assemble.
I personally prefer solvent waste under floors if you using push fit make sure it's well supported.
By the way it's a wash hand basin not a sink you wash pots in a sink!

Thanks. And noted about the hand basin

Regarding the vertical part that goes up through the roof...
How are these normally fitted and are they movable? Ie can i push it up without disturbing roof tiles/flashing? (assuming its not glued to the branch below it)
Just trying to get an idea of what to and not to do before i make a start

If it's a push-in connexion, do secure or block it so it cannot possibly be forced out by pressure in the pipe. Or you'll always wonder - is it going to come out by itself?

The various ways of measuring the metric sizes confuse me so I generally think of waste pipe in inches and materials rather than mm.

Same here.
Just had a look at the pipe i removed from the socket into bidet. It has 1 -1/2 /40 on it so im assuming its a 1.5 inch or 40mm pipe.
The socket is push fit with just a rubber seal on the inside edge.

How would you go preventing it from slipping out...i guess pipe clips woud not be enough.

 

[Ric2013]

So your bidet inlet will work for the shower. Grand. You may find it will accept both ABS and PP size pipe.

When you cap the old shower inlet, I mean for peace of mind, just have something in place to ensure the cap cannot be forced out. I've not bothered in the past, but I always wonder if I did the right thing. Could you not, say, glue a lump of wood to the plasteboard behind (in front? - depending on your point of view) the cap, or cable-tie around the stack? I'm probably just paranoid, but -

 

[Serval]

So your bidet inlet will work for the shower. Grand. You may find it will accept both ABS and PP size pipe.

When you cap the old shower inlet, I mean for peace of mind, just have something in place to ensure the cap cannot be forced out. I've not bothered in the past, but I always wonder if I did the right thing. Could you not, say, glue a lump of wood to the plasteboard behind (in front? - depending on your point of view) the cap, or cable-tie around the stack? I'm probably just paranoid, but -

Ohh you were referring to the shower inlet. I thought you meant something else.
Yes I'd block in with a bit of wood or something bonded to the board or something like that.

 

[Serval]

Is some one able to clear something up for me....

Re svp that exits the roof... Is it possible to just push this section upwards in order to create the clearance needed to take out the old pushfit branches and just replace with new branches if i wanted to?

Ive found a few other threads where people have cut the pipe then fitted a slip coupler.
Just wondered if you could simply push the pipe up the pull back down once new parts are fitted? Instead of having to cut sections out

I can't see any brackets holding it in place in the loft so im assuming its just sitting on top of the pipe work below.

Only thing im not sure about is if, and how its fixed where it goes through the roof flashing/tiles

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You should just be able to turn the branch to your new location

 

[Serval]

You should just be able to turn the branch to your new location

Yep thanks mate. It just twists round. Thats one thing out the way.

On to the next question. The existing shower waste goes from 40 to 50 mm

Should i still be using 50mm pipe work in a similar set up to whats already there if possible for the new shower? (it's about a 2.5 metre straight run)
It will be a low profile with a fairly powerful shower pump.
If i use the 40mm outlet for the bidet is there some sort of adapter that goes from 40 to 50mm for that push fit socket?

The existing shower outlet is solvent welded so not sure if id even be able to re use.
Oh and the plan is to potentially run this pipe work under the floor boards iust to make it simple
If i (she) wanted to use a tray with a booster i could just reuse whats already there

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Can you do a draining of the new shower waste run I’m guessing it’s a low profile one eg sitting on the floor ? Inc joist directions

 

[Serval]

Can you do a draining of the new shower waste run I’m guessing it’s a low profile one eg sitting on the floor ? Inc joist directions

Not purchased the new tray yet so not sure exactly where the drain hole will be but yes it would be one of those ones that sit on the floor.

Also yet to pull up the floor boards to work out where the joists are.

Was trying to get a bit of a head start but
Guessing it might be best off re posting when ive got that info right?

 

[Ric2013]

Not purchased the new tray yet so not sure exactly where the drain hole will be but yes it would be one of those ones that sit on the floor.

Also yet to pull up the floor boards to work out where the joists are.

Was trying to get a bit of a head start but
Guessing it might be best off re posting when ive got that info right?

Yes, but to answer your question above, 1.5" is normally sufficient for runs up to 3m length.