Reduce length of copper pipe

[Simon 45]

Hi
How do you reduce the length of copper pipe by less than 10 mm when you cannot get an junior hacksaw in.

 

[oz-plumber]

Very hard to understand the question and what you are trying to do.

 

[Simon 45]

Very hard to understand the question and what you are trying to do.

Hi
I should have posted the question under central heating but I thought it would apply to various situations. I removed an existing radiator valve and replaced it with a thermostatic valve, the pipe being to high for the new valve, would not line up with radiator. I used a pipe cutter at the minimum possible cut , the pipe was then short. I have done this on many occasions and end up having to extend the pipe to the correct height. I just thought others may have had the same problem and found a cheap solution. I have been looking at an electric multi tool like the Makita TM3010CK or something similar

 

[townfanjon]

I know what you mean Simon , it's difficult pal , theres plenty hand tools available that you can lock a standard jacksaw blade in to ( note standard , not junior ) the multitools are superb but you will struggle just taking off so small an amount because due to the tool vibration they are difficult to hold in the same position for an accurate cut

 

[Best]

Firstly, I would always try to replace radiator valves with a new valve that allow pipe the same full length.
A junior hacksaw will easily cut as little as 2 or 3mm off the end of a copper pipe. You are obviously not used to working with a junior hacksaw.
As you were able to get a pipe cutter/slice in place, - you definitely could have got a junior hacksaw at it.
Often it can necessitate just an inch of blade travel, (maybe wall in the way etc) but new sharp blade and patience will help.
There is also a junior hacksaw that has a triangular shaped frame for awkward spots.
You really need saws with full frame to keep blades held rigid. But the handle type that holds the large hacksaw blade is also useful in near impossible jobs.

 

[Simon 45]

Firstly, I would always try to replace radiator valves with a new valve that allow pipe the same full length.
A junior hacksaw will easily cut as little as 2 or 3mm off the end of a copper pipe. You are obviously not used to working with a junior hacksaw.
As you were able to get a pipe cutter/slice in place, - you definitely could have got a junior hacksaw at it.
Often it can necessitate just an inch of blade travel, (maybe wall in the way etc) but new sharp blade and patience will help.
There is also a junior hacksaw that has a triangular shaped frame for awkward spots.
You really need saws with full frame to keep blades held rigid. But the handle type that holds the large hacksaw blade is also useful in near impossible jobs.

 

[Simon 45]

Being an ex time served joiner I do not have the patience I used to have, I used a 15 mm monument pipe cutter that measures about 50 mm overall, but I have the same problem with 22 mm pipes. I have used hacksaw blade holders in the past they are ok for cutting horizontal pipes if you can see what you are doing, but I find them difficult on vertical pipes, I end up snapping the blades. I replaced 7 valves but only needed to cut one pipe, so I suppose it worked out ok. I just thought there may be a easy solution.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Grinder if it will fit ?

 

[joni os]

A hacksaw blade only cuts in one direction. Often, especially with a junior hacksaw, reversing blade so it cuts on the pull stroke will overcome problem.

 

[Best]

Pipe cutters aren't designed to cut much below 1/2" off a copper pipe. The rollers have very little to steer on and the pipe tends to squeeze in where the blade is against and this makes pipe slices, with their constant heavy spring tension on their blade, worse on end of pipes. Ordinary pipe cutters (small or normal size) with slight manual adjustment of blade would be more possible, but still not ideal.
Using hacksaws is a skill we don't think about, until we see somebody struggle using one. Got to go gently and constantly check blade is going straight.

 

[CP1111]

Might just be easier for you to desolder from the elbow. Pipe slice will trim without wandering if you hold it tight and level

 

[Simon 45]

Pipe cutters aren't designed to cut much below 1/2" off a copper pipe. The rollers have very little to steer on and the pipe tends to squeeze in where the blade is against and this makes pipe slices, with their constant heavy spring tension on their blade, worse on end of pipes. Ordinary pipe cutters (small or normal size) with slight manual adjustment of blade would be more possible, but still not ideal.
Using hacksaws is a skill we don't think about, until we see somebody struggle using one. Got to go gently and constantly check blade is going straight.

 

[Simon 45]

I have no problems at cutting pipes when access is easy and you can see what you are doing, being an ex joiner I think my skills with a saw are above average, but when it becomes awkward or impossible to use a saw on wood I revert to a sharp chisel job done in no time. I just thought in todays world, plumbers would have found an easy way around the problem, on new work as long as measurements are correct you should never need to use a saw. I think the gas engineer has a good solution, to use a small grinder, but then you have a problem with the bits getting into the pipe, but the Magnaclean should catch them. Can I thank everyone for taking the time to join in the discussion all comments appreciated

 

[oz-plumber]

I have no problems at cutting pipes when access is easy and you can see what you are doing, being an ex joiner I think my skills with a saw are above average,

Granted - you can cut timber better than the average person and most plumbers

but when it becomes awkward or impossible to use a saw on wood I revert to a sharp chisel job done in no time.

Plumbers are well versed on the awkward and impossible - bit none of us own sharp chisels

I just thought in todays world, plumbers would have found an easy way around the problem,

We have - we keep our knowledge inbred - much aligned with our DNA

on new work as long as measurements are correct you should never need to use a saw.

We're Plumbers - we can't measure.
That's why we solder pipes, use couplings and have most of our work covered and concealed.

I think the gas engineer has a good solution, to use a small grinder, but then you have a problem with the bits getting into the pipe, but the Magnaclean should catch them.

Copper is not magnetic - Magnaclean would not catch copper particles - unless covered in magnatite.

Can I thank everyone for taking the time to join in the discussion all comments appreciated

Our Pleasure

 

[Simon 45]

Firstly, I would always try to replace radiator valves with a new valve that allow pipe the same full length.
A junior hacksaw will easily cut as little as 2 or 3mm off the end of a copper pipe. You are obviously not used to working with a junior hacksaw.
As you were able to get a pipe cutter/slice in place, - you definitely could have got a junior hacksaw at it.
Often it can necessitate just an inch of blade travel, (maybe wall in the way etc) but new sharp blade and patience will help.
There is also a junior hacksaw that has a triangular shaped frame for awkward spots.
You really need saws with full frame to keep blades held rigid. But the handle type that holds the large hacksaw blade is also useful in near impossible jobs.

 

[Simon 45]

My junior hacksaw measures from blade to the back is approx. 50 mm, there is no way I could have got my junior hacksaw in, you stated if you can get a pipe cutter in you can get a junior hacksaw in I would like to purchase one, can you please tell me where I can get one , the clearance on my 15 mm pipe cutter is less than 20 mm. The only way I could have cut the pipe with a hacksaw blade was to tape up part of the bare blade then use it, I have done this many times in the past, but it is not a good solution. One of my hobbies is model engineering, I would say I am slightly better at metal work than woodwork. I just love working with my hands. For the radiator in question I could have removed the radiator adjusted the support brackets or cut the copper pipe joined it with a shorter pipe. Can I refer you to my original question how do you cut a copper pipe when you cannot get a junior hacksaw in.

 

[Best]

I appreciate you must be good with a lot of hand saws, as you are a joiner. Although every tool, as you know, has a certain time earned skill needed, - even a junior hacksaw. I know joiners can use Coping saws no bother, yet I would struggle. Pad saws are also hard for most trades, except joiners, although I am well used to them and don't use too much force.
Normally, even on very awkward cuts, the junior hacksaw can be used from the front, often cutting with just 2 or 3 teeth of the blade as there is so little space. That's why I always use brand new blade in tight spots. On rare occasions I use a large hacksaw blade just.
Here is a similar sort of junior hacksaw for tight spots, but not the quality one I am thinking about.
junior hacksaw for awkward cuts - Google Search:

You could also use one of these, but blade can flex too easy, -
Junior/Mini Hacksaw 10" 250mm Tight spot/Restricted Access Hacksaw & Blade | eBay

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I use a stnd big hacksaw blade (24t) and a glove

But then again I'm strange

 

[AWheating]

Lift rad off wall, tap brackets up 5-10mm and refit rad. Sorted.

 

[Best]

I use a stnd big hacksaw blade (24t) and a glove

But then again I'm strange

Same with me. In fact I save money and just use a cloth to hold the blade.

 

[Simon 45]

I appreciate you must be good with a lot of hand saws, as you are a joiner. Although every tool, as you know, has a certain time earned skill needed, - even a junior hacksaw. I know joiners can use Coping saws no bother, yet I would struggle. Pad saws are also hard for most trades, except joiners, although I am well used to them and don't use too much force.
Normally, even on very awkward cuts, the junior hacksaw can be used from the front, often cutting with just 2 or 3 teeth of the blade as there is so little space. That's why I always use brand new blade in tight spots. On rare occasions I use a large hacksaw blade just.
Here is a similar sort of junior hacksaw for tight spots, but not the quality one I am thinking about.
junior hacksaw for awkward cuts - Google Search:

You could also use one of these, but blade can flex too easy, -
Junior/Mini Hacksaw 10" 250mm Tight spot/Restricted Access Hacksaw & Blade | eBay

 

[Simon 45]

Thanks for your reply Best, you tried , much appreciated, I fitted the valve by tapping the radiator protecting it with a plank of wood there was sufficient movement on the screws fixing the brackets. Being an ex joiner I always find a way. I just thought there must be a easy solution.
Thanks ShaunCorbs your angle grinder works, its great I used it years ago to replace a strut on a mk 1 Ford Focus estate I had years ago, there is always a way if you have the tools. As a joiner I never wore gloves, I could never grip tools in the way I wanted too.
Thanks townfanjon you appreciated the problem straight away, it seams most would like a easy solution. If a standard hacksaw blade fitted into a full length tight fitting titanium holder, with 50% of the blade exposed may help, but you would have to be able to adjust the cutting angle to accommodate the depth of cut, the blade would not flex. can we patent it on the Forum and make our fortunes.

 

[Best]

This is why I prefer some movement on pipes.
I hate to have to connect radiators or cistern fill valves to rigid pipes.
I seem nowadays to have a modern tool for every job, but not for cutting an 1/8" off pipes.
I will no doubt stay with the scratching the pipe with slight movement of a junior hacksaw method.

 

[Stigster]

A hacksaw blade only cuts in one direction. Often, especially with a junior hacksaw, reversing blade so it cuts on the pull stroke will overcome problem.

This is the way I do it. I have a 300mm hacksaw blade out of the frame with a handle made from some gaffer tape, set up to cut on the pull direction. It can be slow going but the harder hacksaw blade will always win against the soft copper. You are basically slowly filing your way through. It takes some time and patience but you'll get there.

 

[quality]

This is the way I do it. I have a 300mm hacksaw blade out of the frame with a handle made from some gaffer tape, set up to cut on the pull direction. It can be slow going but the harder hacksaw blade will always win against the soft copper. You are basically slowly filing your way through. It takes some time and patience but you'll get there.

I met my wife this way, she thought I had worked really hard cutting through a tight cold water supply for a shower I fitted for her (because it took a while). She even bought me a pair of jeans as a bonus. Never to this day did I tell her it was easy. Other than patience and 23 years of marriage no problem.
Hack saw blade every time