Relocate mains water supply

[Tidlewave13]

Evening all,

Fresh to the forum so hello first!

Well right to it. I am currently mid flow with a new kitchen design but need to establish something before we go any further. My mains water supply comes in directly under where the sink is currently located as normal. But if tou check the photo out i want to do away with the units under the window altogether and relocate the sink to the recess to the right. So in doing this the mains water pipe will be left exposed and in completely the wrong place. Ive also attached a picture from the new design so it hopefuly makes a bit more sense what im trying to achieve.

I need to know two things really. 1) can it be relocated to under the new sink location? And 2) how much and who can do it!!

Many thanks in advance boys and girls.

Cheers

Matt

 

[rpm]

Why don`t you repost with your location in the "I`m looking for a plumber" sub section.

Thanks for registering and welcome to the forum.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

is it a solid floor or do you have floor boards? much easier to do if you have floor boards.

 

[Tidlewave13]

Hi steveb

Its a solid floor unfortunately

Cheers

 

[stevetheplumber]

you will have to dig it up put a coupling on and run it under the screed easy enough for a plumber but could be a bit beyond basic diy

 

[ShaunCorbs]

you will have to dig it up put a coupling on and run it under the screed easy enough for a plumber but could be a bit beyond basic diy

but that gets alot harder if its steel

 

[Tidlewave13]

but that gets alot harder if its steel

Excuse my naievty but the pipe is blue plastic that comes out from the ground, dont know if that helps at all?

 

[lame plumber]

makes it simpler

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Excuse my naievty but the pipe is blue plastic that comes out from the ground, dont know if that helps at all?

as lame said makes it much easier

 

[joni os]

Joints in screed are best avoided. If location of pipe can be established outside building, then drill and sleeve for new entry to required location. Usually less than two hours work. Minimal disturbance to existing flooring.

 

[stevetheplumber]

Joints in screed are best avoided. If location of pipe can be established outside building, then drill and sleeve for new entry to required location. Usually less than two hours work. Minimal disturbance to existing flooring.

how do you come up with that it would take, two hours to dig the hole outside and its still got to come up through a concrete floor i suspect alll your plumbing knowledge comes from books

 

[joni os]

The two hours is for drilling and sleeving from inside to outside. First mistake most make is to start core too close to wall. Proceed as follows:-
With centre of hole approx. 300mm off wall, core through screed insulation and oversite concrete with 100mm core bit. As core starts to bite into screed angle drill so direction of core is towards wall.
Once through concrete, next problem is loose stone below. Overcome this with straight crowbar and plastic sleeve. Bar driven to wall/footing and wriggled to enlarge hole. Plastic pipe, 50mm diameter, slid down bar to sleeve hole. Hole in oversite concrete used as fulcrum to assist process.
1 metre,25mm, SDS bit now used to drill through wall/footing.
Enlarge hole with 38mm core bit and extensions. Do not be tempted to use smaller size as shoulder of core will not pass through hole.
I accept that in east London / Isle of Dogs many houses are on pile and beam foundations and cores should not be made through RC ground beams, but for the majority of properties elsewhere, on strip or trench fill foundations, the procedure works and 2 hrs is more than adequate.

 

[chris watkins]

The two hours is for drilling and sleeving from inside to outside. First mistake most make is to start core too close to wall. Proceed as follows:-
With centre of hole approx. 300mm off wall, core through screed insulation and oversite concrete with 100mm core bit. As core starts to bite into screed angle drill so direction of core is towards wall.
Once through concrete, next problem is loose stone below. Overcome this with straight crowbar and plastic sleeve. Bar driven to wall/footing and wriggled to enlarge hole. Plastic pipe, 50mm diameter, slid down bar to sleeve hole. Hole in oversite concrete used as fulcrum to assist process.
1 metre,25mm, SDS bit now used to drill through wall/footing.
Enlarge hole with 38mm core bit and extensions. Do not be tempted to use smaller size as shoulder of core will not pass through hole.
I accept that in east London / Isle of Dogs many houses are on pile and beam foundations and cores should not be made through RC ground beams, but for the majority of properties elsewhere, on strip or trench fill foundations, the procedure works and 2 hrs is more than adequate.

Me thinks that lot didn't come out of a plumbing book, what do you think steve ? :builder:

Just a tip to anyone brave enough to have a go at that - double check that you know where all the other utilities are first !! You really wouldn't want to locate your incoming electrical supply with a core bit.

 

[lame plumber]

bet the blue mdpe is going straight up the wall in a sleeve, elbowed straight through the brick skin into the new position in the kitchen

 

[stevetheplumber]

thanks chris i was starting to think it was just me

 

[Tidlewave13]

Thanks guys for all your help and advice. You all know a dam sight more than i do!! Me thinks its time to repost under find a plumber!!

Have a good evening all.

Thanks again