remeha boiler??? | Boilers | Plumbers Forums

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss remeha boiler??? in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.

southcoastboile

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Messages
1,279
had a customer phone me asking if i could service a remeha boiler, i said yes no problem. I have never worked on one yet which is suprising as i normaly do about 6 jobs a day but anyway, my question is.......

has anyone worked on one and are there any known faults to look for?

obv i will do fga, wp, gas rate, soundness etc but its always handy to know a bit about the boiler before you turn up.

Also so i dont look like a complete idiot. How does the case come off? im sure we have all been there with that one!
 
good point, its either a 24-39c range or 18-30s range from looking at the piks on there website, cheers bod
 
Which remehA boiler is it mate?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is a very good boiler
casing comes of by unscrewing two screw at each bottom front corner

Service details can be found in mi booklet


Only thing to double check is rope seal around burner,common fault for them to break down ,I replace during service
 
Horrible plastic casings with easy little clips if I remember rightly
 
two screws underneath, pull forward and lift off, fga at H3 and L3, check ionisation current FL more than 5 less than 9, otherwise change probe and wire, if two years old change burner gasket, check for leaks on flow and return connections
 
yeah i googled them and they had some reviews saying they are on a par with worcester/valiant. Might pay me to get a seal then before i go, i probably wont remove the burner though if the fga is ok, thanks for all the replies everyone. Keep them coming, any extra info would be good. Cheers
 
I like them, can echo same things as mentioned before, also make sure the aav's are left open especially the one on top of the heat exchanger.
 
I've only ever worked on their commercial range of boilers and can't rate them any higher.
 
Last edited:
I got the 39kw combi on recommendation from a mate who has installed over a 100 with sod all problems
 
Installed over 60 of these in various guises.
Plus points: Quiet and compact
Minus points: burner seals fall to bits as soon as you look at them. Unhelpful manufacturers backup, now that they are under heatteam.Dubious electrodes
As already mentioned, FGA at H3 and L3. If it was never set up properly then it will need tweaking. All the ones I have installed needed tweaking out of the box
 
I thing you are right there about setting up as i did have a diverter valve issue and heat team sorted it . and I remember the guy going on about the burner pressure etc
 
serviced the boiler today, it was a 24 avantay or something like that, cant remember exactly, i was told to get it to fire on high you had to push both rhs buttons? these were an enter sign and a + sign. Tried but didn't go into high, even after pressing the "r" button, still wouldn't work, then tried the + and _ bttons, still no joy, checked flue gases with hot tap on full, 8.8%co2. Came up with loads off different numbers etc on the display while i was messing about trying to get it into high fire, didn't understand what they meant. Didnt have book either. Went from numbers 1-4 on display and had 3 diff letters come up each time i pressed a button. Not familiar with these boilers. Can anyone tell me how to get it into high? private msg me if you dont want to say on here. thanks, sorry for long post
 
oh yeah and the pump kept running, then stopping, then running, as if it was getting a demand but not firing, seemed like it was something to do with the buttons i pressed?
 
The manual is readily available on the net,download it and take it with you
 
I agree, if the custard hasn't got the manual how will you know what O2, CO, CO2, ratio readings the manufacturer wants. There may also be other requirements for the annual service.
 
The 2 buttons must be pressed at the same time , try pressing the R button before [reset]
If activated correctly you'll get H3,l3 or L3 in window. to change between these settings press r/hand button..... H3 is high rate , L3 is low, ignore l3.
If you tested on dhw with tap fully open & got 8.8 co2 it should be fine.
The timing of pressing these buttons is critical. Good luk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

B
To expand slightly on @John.g's answer, many...
Replies
2
Views
1K
200% won’t be the reason the cylinder isn’t...
Replies
10
Views
1K
It could be numerous things, including a flow...
Replies
3
Views
677
Yes, a 24kW will be fine - just what you need.
Replies
2
Views
720
Still got the leak when checked after he left...
Replies
9
Views
1K
Back
Top