Repair or Replace? | Air Sourced Heat Pumps | Plumbers Forums

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Looking at about 90% of maintenance work I've done I've tended to rip it out and replace a part rather than fluffing about trying to repair it. It often takes less time and effort to replace a fill valve or a syphon than trying to make good with a spare part. Everything has a shelf life, from a beautiful woman to a plumbing part (don't worry Mrs system3, I'm not leaving)

So I subscribe to the rip it and replace brigade! Should be interesting to see what other forum members do?
 
Neither, do a service exchange - if they are good enough, repair them in your spare time and use them as replacements. You can charge the customer less than a new part but nearly everything you charge for them is pure profit.
 
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always try the simple repair if doesn't work replace and take part home with me to completely strip and try and repair. (Bearing in mind I don't do proper jobs atm, just FOVs, dripping taps etc) As these are just for mates or family friends its normally for a couple of drinks or something and they've normally already brought the spare.
 
i also ripout and replace with new. that way you can guarantee its going to work and custard will be happy. having said that had to replace a mira 88 cartridge last week and the brand new cartridge was faulty !!
 
after spent many hours trying to repair things that cost little money i would say replace unless cost dictates otherwise.
 
I'm doing a lot of reactive maintenance at the moment, as I get a fixed fee per job and I don't pay for the parts (nor does the customer) I tend to just replace!

However if I can see an easy and quick way of repairing then I will. But most of the ball valves etc I replace are so corroded it's a nightmare to get them apart.
 
Depends what it is & what order it is in, whether I replace whole part or just fix it. I would put a new toilet fill valve in if the old one dodgy or an odd make, but I would always change motor bearings in oil burners as cheap, only takes extra few min, usually job for years & wasteful to dump them. I would fix Mira 722 & 723 shower valves, as brass works costs near £200 but service kit costs £15, & just needs cleaned carefully.
 
Depends what it is. I replace diaphragms on WC syphons and keep them as spares. I don't bother replacing washers on very old float valves where I cannot do it in situ. Wouldn't scrap a motor just becuase bearings are worn out. Would replace a capacitor on a motor or circulating pump if that was the only fault.
 
all depends on what has gone wrong really fill valve probably just change, syphon diaphragm cut new one always fit new donut though
 
if I have a new part/valve/fitting will replace as using a old ones when you have a new one is crazy ,I also always make sure I fit what I have priced for and is always the good brand I have quoted for !
 
Depends on circumstance. Most companies today seem to favour rip out and replace, in the old days it was usually repair if the part was in otherwise good order. Something wrong with ripping out and selling back as a high price recondition though. Is it fair on the customer not to explain what the replacement part is and give a good discount? Not just mark it down a penny or two from the price of a new part?
 
A week ago I repaired my first ball valve in four years. Took the thing to pieces wondering what on earth I was doing. Went to my ball valve repairers box (bought 4 years ago and never used), changed a few bits then returned to cistern. Nearly fell over from shock when it worked and didn't leak. Felt like a 1960'/70's plumber!!

Ironically, the week before I tried changing my mother in law's part 1 for a flash torbeck (but then couldn't stop leaks/drips) so changed for a part 2 (then handle wouldn't fit properly!) The cisterns were both exactly the same, with only 50mm from the cistern to the wall. Mother in law's took a good hour. The one I repaired took about 1/2 hour - still slower than replacing with torbeck (and noisier) but happy customer and now my ball valve box is paid for (at long last).
 
well done mate i had a fliudmaster which needed a new diaphragm earlier in the week just changed the whole unit for a torbeck as i didn't have any fluidmaster ones. personally i think fluidmaster are very good just the diaphragms are expensive.
 
well done mate i had a fliudmaster which needed a new diaphragm earlier in the week just changed the whole unit for a torbeck as i didn't have any fluidmaster ones. personally i think fluidmaster are very good just the diaphragms are expensive.

Fluidmaster needing a new diaphragm? I thought these were fit and forget items!
 
If the brass part 1 or 2 ball valve is in good order, I would fix it. Some of the older type part 1 valves are better quality than new valves, so worth fixing. To renew washer i take the " piston" apart by wrapping a piece of cloth emery fully around end, rough side against brass, and slacken using footprints, - doesn't damage brass. Washers tend to be too wide. Should be able to repair & replace in less 5 min easily- not joking! Only thing is brass pin often needs renewed & sometimes seating.
 
i agree the only time i have replaced a brass part 1 or 2 is when it has been covered in limescale otherwise i service it new washer and new split pin
 
i agree the only time i have replaced a brass part 1 or 2 is when it has been covered in limescale otherwise i service it new washer and new split pin
Yes, makes sense to fix, as hard bit is often just removing the valve! Some of them, I can change the washer in seconds! Some guys are just fitters!:smile5: Problem is customer can think they owe less, as you did a repair, not complete new valve.
 
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