Repairing plastic pipe.

[pewe]

The central heating in our house has been installed using 10mm Speedfit Barrier PB pipe.
I think there is a leak in the pipework behind some plaster board (dot and dab) as there is a damp patch on the plasterboard (looks like a nail may have been put through it).

If it is a nail hole, I guess I can cut out a section of plasterboard to access the area, but to repair the pipe can anyone confirm the best way of inserting a new peice of pipe without draining the system - can I freeze the pipe, or will it be safe to 'crimp' it while I insert the patch.

I have used freeze kits on copper before, but not sure if they work on Barrier, and I'm not sure if Speedfit Barrier PB will crimp and return to shape safely after being released.

Any experienced advice welcome.

 

[Gasmk1]

wouldnt advise crimping as when bent too far pipe flattens and distorts.

 

[pewe]

wouldnt advise crimping as when bent too far pipe flattens and distorts.

Hmmmm.... Thats what I was afraid would be the case - so now the only option left is freezing - if this pipe can be frozen.

 

[oz-plumber]

Depending on your system - sealed or open vented.
There are ways of doing the repair, without spilling a litre of water, when inserting a couple of fittings.

 

[Darren Jackson]

Yes you can freeze it. then quickly cut the pipe exactly where the nail hole is & put in two 10mm inserts/pipe stiffeners in the ends and join them back up using a 10mm straight coupler joint. No need to put a new section of pipe in, the coupler will cover the small hole made by the nail/screw.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Not good practice really though to have a fitting like that inside the wall.

 

[pewe]

Depending on your system - sealed or open vented.
There are ways of doing the repair, without spilling a litre of water, when inserting a couple of fittings.

The system is sealed - runs off a combi boiler.

Not good practice really though to have a fitting like that inside the wall.

I had thought of that, unfortunately without a major removal of plasterbaord and flooring I don't appear to have any alternative.

 

[Darren Jackson]

Not good practice really though to have a fitting like that inside the wall.

Agreed but I don't think they have much choice without major work required.

 

[oz-plumber]

I wouldn't even be bothered to freeze the pipe.
Not a great task to drain the pressure and cut in a coupling.

As for good or bad practice - you would have concealed joints everywhere in your house.

 

[Harvest Fields]

I wouldn't even be bothered to freeze the pipe.
Not a great task to drain the pressure and cut in a coupling.

As for good or bad practice - you would have concealed joints everywhere in your house.

Do you know this definitely? Most likely yes, but can you say 100% and does that mean that he should actually do it that way?

 

[Deleted member 96286]

Honestly mate, I wouldn't have a repair or a coupling inside a wall and would without any hesitation recommend that you drain the system down and replace that section of pipe back to where it's accesable to fit a coupling. A coil of 10mm speedfit is cheap as chips and you'll need a packet of supaseal inserts and a coupling. Don't forget to add inhibitor once you're refilling the system. Trying a repair is like using a sticking plaster and at some point it could come back to haunt you. As to crimping, it won't work with 10mm PEX as it will distort the pipe and may even cause it to crack. Crimping is for MDPE which is used for underground mains. Spend a bit of time on it, do it right and it should be permanent.

 

[Riley]

It won’t freeze if water is moving

 

[Ben-gee]

You may well be able to poke down a new bit of pipe without cutting into the plasterboard and join it where accessible.

I would try taping the new pipe to the old and then pulling it through, I have done this loads of times with cables, if there’s a free path it should work, if the old pipe is captured in a dab of adhesive - unluckyyyyy. But nothing to lose trying this before you start cutting into wall.