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C

Cavester

Hi all,

I had a water leak behind a false wall where a joint had been wiped to connect lead with copper. I had a plumber come out who replaced the lead for me.

However there was also an old lead pipe stopcock which used to be the mains entering the house and that was turned off but it connected to the new pipe. I told the plumber that he may as well take that out as I thought it was broke as the water was flowing in fine, thinking that that old supply was inline with the new which now has its stopcock in the garage feeding from the front of the street.

the work was done and water turned on and all fine except 3 hours later I'm thinking... I can't remember hearing that constant flow of water through the pipes before?... Then the penny dropped! The water wasn't coming in there as I thought it was in line with the new supply, but was actually flowing out! God knows where it has been flowing for 3 hours but I hope it's not under the floor somewhere! After searching i believe this is called a dead leg?

anyway question now is can I just get an isolation valve fitted to replace the old stopcock that was preventing the water going back out the old inlet (will it be as strong as a stopcock)? Or do I just terminate them both?

thanks in advance.
 
i agree cut as much as possible of the dead leg away and cap it off.
 
Ok, next dumb question is...

plumber is not going to get out today so is this something acompetent DIY'er can do and if so, how?

i was hoping an isolation valve would have done it and then I could have just replaced a copper join with that.

cheers.
 
Copper is where the existing joint I am referring to is. The lead is connected to copper under the floor with a lead lock.
 

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This is under the floor coming from the pipe in the previous photo above....
 

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In the first picture (rotate 90 degrees clockwise to get correct orientation) the constant cold water feed is the bottom of the two pipes you see going off to one side.

it is currently going into a T piece, except I don't want the water going down (back out via the old inlet).
 
If you know where you want it capping pop out to one of the diy sheds and buy a compression stop end. Come home turn off water cut pipe and fit stop end. Job done stick the kettle on:)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
So if I put 2 of these where that existing nutted join is in the first picture that should do the trick?...

Stop End 15mm Pack of 2 - Compression Sundries | Screwfix

assuming the pipes are 15mm?
 
Assumption is the mother of all 'muck' ups!!

Never assume anything in this game - it just causes problems if you tell a plumber to do work based on an assumption or third party information . . .

An AA mechanic told me my van needed a started motor. I took it to a garage and told them to fit one for me. £125 later we find out it was not the damn motor in the first place, but an immobiliser stopping it from starting!

Best bet - tell them the problem and let the expert work out and confirm the exact issue to fix. This way everyone is happy . . .
 
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