Replace type 21 rad into type 22, is it worth?

[gungaabayar]

Hi

My bedroom has got Type 21 single panel single convector 60x1100 rad. It seems quite slow to get the room warm. Is it really worth If I replace it with Type 22 double panel 2 convectors 60x1100 rad?

cheers

 

[lame plumber]

try turning the boiler temp up a bit first

 

[gungaabayar]

try turning the boiler temp up a bit first

The Boiler is E mode, but the radiator is hot enough. Actually very hot, but room dont just get warm enough. That leads me thinking to replace it with type 22 rad.

 

[Best]

You could try using a double rad which has only one panel with fins. Less output but probably still too much. Slimmer rad also. Make sure it has a Trv.

 

[kris]

A 1100 k2 double is a big rad for a bedroom, but depends on the size of the room and how much heat loss your room has, if you like heat then you'd defo see a big difference in putting in a double , just watch when buying rads as you get ,,,,,, single panel , double panel and double panel plus, many folks automatically think double plus is the biggest but it's not , the double panel ones have the biggest output,

 

[Best]

A 1100 k2 double is a big rad for a bedroom, but depends on the size of the room and how much heat loss your room has, if you like heat then you'd defo see a big difference in putting in a double , just watch when buying rads as you get ,,,,,, single panel , double panel and double panel plus, many folks automatically think double plus is the biggest but it's not , the double panel ones have the biggest output,

Exactly what I meant - double plus or also known as double panel extra, has only one panel finned. I prefer them where suitable.

 

[Scott_D]

Try an online radiator size calculator, pump in your details and see what you need vs what you have.

 

[gungaabayar]

Yes it has TRV. I think double panel, double convector (fin) ones is the biggest output, am I right?

seems like all new rads nowadays have a hook thing on the back and is hanged in the wall bracket. The distance between top and bottom hooks are the same as all rads or not? I mean I will buy a rad (could be different make) and just wanna hook it in the current rad's bracket (rail).

many thanks again
DG

 

[kris]

Every make of radiator has different positioning of brackets unfortunately , so would need re-hung,

 

[plumben]

And potential re-piped depending on the play in the pipes

 

[kay-jay]

Op try opening the lock shield up a bit see if that works before swapping rads.

 

[Best]

That's a good point ^^. The radiator might seem eventually to be hot enough, but is it actually as hot as the others & is it fairly hot right to the bottom?
If it is one of the last rads on a circuit & perhaps the system not balanced correctly, then it will not heat as well. Loads of times I have came across where a rad has been changed to a more powerful one, but no improvement because the system wasn't suppling enough flow to it in the first place.

 

[gungaabayar]

Its last rad, lock shield valve already fully open,

the rad gets very hot anyway.

 

[kay-jay]

Its last rad, lock shield valve already fully open,

the rad gets very hot anyway.

Well depending on your system size and diameter of pipework sticking a bigger rad on may not achieve greater heat output.

Plus it could still be a balancing issue. If the lockshield is fully open maybe crank the lockshield on the other rads down a touch

 

[gungaabayar]

Its an one bedroom flat. Lounge - 60x1000cm dbl panel, dbl convector new rad, bedroom - single panel, single convector 60x1100 rad, kitchen, corridor and bathroom have still old yellowish rads. All pipes go to the rads are 15mm. Heat only boiler in kitchen.

Its might be balancing issue. I bought a thermometer from ebay to do that. But it was faulty one, not lucky.

Bathroom is closest, kitchen and lounge next, corrudor one next and bedroom rad is most far from boiler.

Dnt know how to balance without thermometer. Cos Im newbie in plumbing.

Sometimes boiler reaches its temperature and switched off itself even room temp is not reached the target I put.

Thinking to change the 3 old rads

any good advice in this system?

cheers

 

[kay-jay]

If your boiler is knocking off before room stat temp is achieved then you have a fault whih needs remedying. It is doubtful that new rads will change anything.

Essentially either you have a faulty overheat stat ir a circulation problem in your heating circuit causing boiler to overheat.

You need an engineer to visit.

 

[gungaabayar]

If your boiler is knocking off before room stat temp is achieved then you have a fault whih needs remedying. It is doubtful that new rads will change anything.

Essentially either you have a faulty overheat stat ir a circulation problem in your heating circuit causing boiler to overheat.

You need an engineer to visit.

Bypass pipe gets so hot, does it mean boiling hot water comes to return pipe and make boiler temp so high or not?
Can I try to close bypass valve and see what will happen?

cheers again
DG

 

[Stanios]

Its last rad, lock shield valve already fully open,

the rad gets very hot anyway.

You need another rad in your room, convectors may give you 10 percent more output, an additional rad will give you 100.

 

[gungaabayar]

You need another rad in your room, convectors may give you 10 percent more output, an additional rad will give you 100.

current rad is SINGLE panel,
what if I replace it with double panel with 2 convectors?

 

[kay-jay]

Bypass pipe gets so hot, does it mean boiling hot water comes to return pipe and make boiler temp so high or not?
Can I try to close bypass valve and see what will happen?

cheers again
DG

What is your bypass valve is it a red wheeled gate valve? If so try cranking it down bit by bit and see how performance increases in rest of system. Sounds like it may be too open allowing freshly heated water to bypass back to the boiler and triggering the overheat stat before the room temperature has been achieved.

 

[Stanios]

current rad is SINGLE panel,
what if I replace it with double panel with 2 convectors?

Right my bad. Single panel convector 600x1100 is 1kw, double double is 1.8kw so will go quite a way toward helping with the problem assuming your system has no additional problems.

 

[gungaabayar]

What is your bypass valve is it a red wheeled gate valve? If so try cranking it down bit by bit and see how performance increases in rest of system. Sounds like it may be too open allowing freshly heated water to bypass back to the boiler and triggering the overheat stat before the room temperature has been achieved.

I dnt think its red wheeled gate valve. Its shielded valve, welded to the pipe. Must been there ages. It had very very little leak. Just wet. But the wet is gone these days. Im not sure it will turn cos of rust and scale around it. Scared to turn it cos itmay lead leaks.

just put the boiler temp to little higher than E ( economic) mode and see what happen.

 

[gungaabayar]

Right my bad. Single panel convector 600x1100 is 1kw, double double is 1.8kw so will go quite a way toward helping with the problem assuming your system has no additional problems.

thanks for your advice

 

[kay-jay]

If your bypass is fully open you can add seventeen radiators without a ha'peth of difference. If it looks corroded and you have fears of it leaking when touched and it is as you say red hot in operation then the best advice is to replace with an automatic bypass balve which will offer resistance when your system is cold and still reaching temperature. This will stop your boiler cycling and cutting out on overheat before rooms are warm