Replace vented immersion tank with unvented indirect cylinder? | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Replace vented immersion tank with unvented indirect cylinder? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

clockworks

My house was built in 1966 as a 2 bed bungalow. An oil-fired Aga with back boiler heated the water in a vented cylinder. The Aga was removed, leaving an immersion heater to heat the tank.
A dormer conversion (2 beds and a shower room) was done about 13 years ago by a previous owner, and central heating was installed - Worcester Danesmoor 15/19 oil-fired boiler (no mains gas in the village).

A few weeks ago, I replaced the original TRVs with an Evohome setup.

Everything works - to a degree:

The boiler doesn't have a bypass, so I've left one radiator open. I need to get this sorted.

The hot tap in the upstairs shower room is pitiful. Flow rate is 2l per minute, and it takes nearly 2 minutes to run hot. I think it's a combination of long pipe runs, and a header tank that's only a couple of feet above the tap. The flow in the kitchen and downstairs bathroom is just about acceptable.

Incoming mains flow seems good - around 30l per minute on an outside tap.

I'm considering getting an unvented indirect cylinder fitted in the garage, next to the boiler. This would be easier than trying to squeeze the new cylinder into the airing cupboard. Current tank is about 140l.

I had a plumber in at the weekend to look at the job, and he's quoted me for a 250l Centerstore unvented cylinder, 2 port valve, and an ABV for the heating circuit, as well as decommissioning the existing header tank and cylinder. He's proposing to feed the hot water back up through an existing washing machine supply pipe that's in the garage.

I have a few questions:

Is Centerstore an OK make?

Would feeding the hot water back up a 15mm pipe be an OK solution? It'll save a lot of work, but it would make the already tortuous pipe runs even longer, and I'm concerned that the 15mm pipework might be too restrictive.

Do I need a 250l cylinder, or would 190l be enough? Both showers are mains electric, so just one bath, 2 basins and the kitchen sink.
 
Hi
Center store, are fine. They are a branded one made by megaflo. It will work OK with connecting into the 15mm but, for a few hours work. I would be feeding it in 22mm from the mains and feeding 22mm hot to the nearest 22mm hot.
 
Hi
Center store, are fine. They are a branded one made by megaflo. It will work OK with connecting into the 15mm but, for a few hours work. I would be feeding it in 22mm from the mains and feeding 22mm hot to the nearest 22mm hot.
 
250 litre too big if you are on lecki showers , but if you put a 210 in that would still do a mixer shower if you ever changed it . Failing that a 180 would do a bath no problem.
As Chalked above says the center brand are good unventeds , I fit them as well
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

  • Question
Ya, they said the fact the anti-vibration...
Replies
6
Views
623
S
  • Question
Many thanks, Ben-gee - that's very useful...
Replies
2
Views
780
Steveo111
S
Replies
1
Views
970
Back
Top