Replacement Burner Bearings

[CraigT]

[FONT=&quot]Hi, I've got a 10yr old Worcester Bosch Heatslave 20/25 oil boiler & by the sound of it the bearings are on the way out on the burner. It's an Electro Oil Inter B11 burner & I'm struggling to find the correct bearings. I've found the post about plumbing tips that says Most Riello / Electro Oil motors take 6202RSbearings, but I've also found posts suggesting I need a 6202 2RS and a 6202 2ZZ bearing. Having spoken to someone at 'The Bearing Man' I understand that the letters at the end relate to different types of seal etc.

Is anyone able to confirm what bearing (and how many) I need? I'm reluctant to dismantle the burner to try to find the information as it's still working (albeit noisily) and it's only 4°C outside!

Cheers,

Craig
[/FONT]

​

 

[Bunker]

Sometimes a drop of oil is all you need down the shaft. Look at the pump shaft area too, if thats wet the pump is weeping oil which is what may have destroyed the grease around the bearings so the pump may be the cause, and the motor, the effect. Personally, Id just stick new motor on but thats because its quicker and often more cost effective for the customer.
Beware though, if you are not a service engineer, dont attempt to muck with the pump.

 

[CraigT]

Sometimes a drop of oil is all you need down the shaft. Look at the pump shaft area too, if thats wet the pump is weeping oil which is what may have destroyed the grease around the bearings so the pump may be the cause, and the motor, the effect. Personally, Id just stick new motor on but thats because its quicker and often more cost effective for the customer.
Beware though, if you are not a service engineer, dont attempt to muck with the pump.

OK, thanks for the advice. It sounds pretty bad & at 10 yrs old I think I'll go for the bearing change (I'll check what you said about the shaft area). I'd rather try this first than go for the expense of a new motor. I'm not intending to adjust the pump in any way, so that shouldn't be an issue. That said, the boiler's due for a service, so I'll probably get the settings checked anyway once I've got the bearings sorted...

 

[lame plumber]

new bearings will probably make the pump run faster and any movement of the air damper will affect co2 settings and I doubt whether youll let a qualified engineer near the unit if you intend to change bearings yourself. I may be wrong but it would be sad to read about your demise later in the week.

 

[snowhead]

Can't help with the decision as to whether it's a good idea to strip a 10 year old burner down but;

6202 is the bearing size
2 (of RS or ZZ) indicates seals on both sides, bearing comes pregreased and sealed for life.
RS are non metallic
and ZZ are metallic seals, which stand up to heat better.

Most shafts whatever they are for, only have 1 bearing at each end.

 

[CraigT]

Can't help with the decision as to whether it's a good idea to strip a 10 year old burner down but;

6202 is the bearing size
2 (of RS or ZZ) indicates seals on both sides, bearing comes pregreased and sealed for life.
RS are non metallic
and ZZ are metallic seals, which stand up to heat better.

Most shafts whatever they are for, only have 1 bearing at each end.

Hi, thanks for that. So I take it that 2 x 6202 ZZ is the way to go... My feeling is that if I can sort the problem by just changing the bearings then it's better than having to replace the whole unit. If it doesn't work then I'm back to replacing the pump...

With regards to "lame plumber's" comments, I try to do as much of the repairs on the Worcester Bosch bolier myself (if not it would have cost me a small fortune in labour charges over recent years...), however I don't possess the tools for analysing the flue gases, or setting the pump pressure, so I get a local qualified heating engineer to regularly service the boiler & check the settings. Works for me...!

I'll order the bearings tomorrow & let you know how I get on...

 

[kimbo]

If I was called to this job, due to the age of the burner and the price to me, I would advise a new motor, there is more money in changing the bearings for me but if the motor was to pack up 3 months later I would feel a bit embarrased. The boiler has a good few years left in it yet, if you change the motor I doubt whether you will have to change it or the bearings again.
If you want to change the bearings RS is rubber sealed and zz is metal shielded go for Skf or *** bearings not the cheap imports. Good price on ebay.

 

[WHPES]

I always carry a stock of bearings, yes 6202RS and 6202ZZ. You of course need a micro bearing puller to remove the fan and the old bearings. Unless the burner is ancient I usually change them when they start to make a noise as it's overloading that damages a motor and it's nothing to do with age.

You can get them from any auto parts suppliers as they are the size of bearings used in most alternators.

 

[Roger Welton]

if the motor was to pack up 3 months later I would feel a bit embarrased. The boiler has a good few years left in it yet, if you change the motor I doubt whether you will have to change it or the bearings again.

This is why I only replace motors complete.

 

[WHPES]

I always check the motor has plenty of torque before fitting replacement bearings. If it's a bit feeble then no.

95% of noisy motors I come across I just change the bearings.

 

[CraigT]

Hi. A quick update. The new 6202 2ZZ bearings arrived and changing them over was fairly straightforward (one stubborn bearing to remove from the shaft!). The old bearings were definitely worn & the shaft was nice & dry, so it doesn't look like the oil pump is leaking.The boiler is now back to running nice & quietly. I'm ordering a new burner nozzle & then have someone coming round to fit this & check the settings. Thanks very much for the help & advice.