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geoffus

Hi, I have a Boulter Classic boiler,the burner control unit is a Riello RBL G5 443T58. My problem is anintermittent start up. The burner starts as normal and runs, cuttingoff when the operating temp has been reached (as normal).This carrieson for a few cycles. The system then locks out. Pressing the lockoutreset button either restarts the system or the unit buzzes and thefan does not operate causing the lockout to operate after a fewseconds. After a couple of presses the fan operates and the boilerfires up as normal. I am from an engineering background and I havehad the control unit off and cleaned the contacts but the problemremains. Could anyone please suggest what the problem may be.
 
A service will sort it out from engineer with all necessary test equipment. Id be looking at capacitor/motor but could be allsorts.
 
As above could be a few things other than the control unit. Will need a flue gas any loser to test combustion afterwards.
Far cheaper to get a qualified engineer to come and sort it. A service at the same time will get the boiler running efficiently and reliably.
 
I agree you are better getting it all fixed in a service. A decent engineer might do it for little extra than a standard service. Getting the burner set up by an engineer properly with an analyser will save you the service charge in less fuel used in a very short time.
Your burner has either the motor faulty or motor or oil pump tight for some reason, - or the capacitor is weak.
 
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And stop messing about with it. Engineering background or not, you don't know whether your boiler is running safe without the proper test gear.
 
RBL G5 443T58. My problem is anintermittent start up. The burner starts as normal and Could anyone please suggest what the problem may be.

Check the capacitor with a multi meter or just replace it and let us know how you get on.
If you can reach the fan give it a spin when energising initiates. Thats how I twigged on when my own boiler went on the blink. Last engineer who looked at it was 17 years ago when it left the factory. LoL

Keeping the necessary parts is a good idea also as parts changing can help identify the fault in some cases.
I keep a solid walnut drawer full of kit for such times as a malfunction. And the kit looks good inside a classy piece of hand made furniture.

Oil boilers like grant are bullet proof. (not combi rubbish though) I fitted one (50kw jobby) for a guy 8 years ago and its been running ever since on the factory settings. Doing a loft conversion for him at the mo.

What I was most surprised to see after 8 years was the sealed heating system I installed for him still under pressure!
 
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Oil boilers like grant are bullet proof. (not combi rubbish though) I fitted one (50kw jobby) for a guy 8 years ago and its been running ever since on the factory settings. Doing a loft conversion for him at the mo.

I wouldn't run the oil boiler on factory setting. Assuming the oil pump has actually been set to correct pressure in factory and the nozzle is correct for output the house actually needs, the air setting will often be too high. They do that in the factory just to stay on the over aired side of burning for to keep the boiler from sooting and to be okay for worse cause scenario - a low level balanced flue. The manufacturer knows there will be members of the public who won't get it commissioned and engineers who won't bother using an analyser or altering the settings, so the manufacturer will avoid getting call outs and a bad reputation if they keep the burner adjusted with too much air - in other words, roughly but wrongly set.
Factory setting cannot be exact for unknown boiler install in an unknown location and with inevitable variations in actual nozzle output etc.
You just waste kerosine. I worry when people say to me smugly that their boiler has never been serviced in 10 years, - proves it must be over aired or it most likely would have sooted up if properly set from beginning.
 
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Hi All. Many thanks for your replies. I removed the motor capacitor as suggested and found there was a blow hole in in the case and lump of a coke like deposit on it. Replaced the capacitor and the system now works fine. The reply from croppie, not too helpful !!!!!!
Thanks again and a happy Christmas to you all,
 
Hi All. Many thanks for your replies. I removed the motor capacitor as suggested and found there was a blow hole in in the case and lump of a coke like deposit on it. Replaced the capacitor and the system now works fine. The reply from croppie, not too helpful !!!!!!
Thanks again and a happy Christmas to you all,

You didn't reply to the question a few asked - When did you get it last serviced?
A service will often pick up any slight faults before they get worse. Reason Croppie and others are advising you to get an oil engineer to service it is because a lot of "engineer" types only touch things they know nothing about. For example, - have you had the burner set up to burn safely and at highest efficiency?
 
My reply was extremely helpful.

But carry on with that attitude and you'll discover exactly how unhelpful I can get.
 
Is another muppet going to bite the dust?

Enquiring minds need to know :)
 
Hi All. Many thanks for your replies. I removed the motor capacitor as suggested and found there was a blow hole in in the case and lump of a coke like deposit on it. Replaced the capacitor and the system now works fine. The reply from croppie, not too helpful !!!!!!
Thanks again and a happy Christmas to you all,

t are very helpful. On how too test the capacitor, photocell, how too test the pressures, set the air etc etc.
You won't get fobbed off by being advised to call someone in. A lot of vested interests here, probably spurned on by regs from trade bodies like oftec etc. I dare say they would like it run similar to gas safe.

I always keep my own oil boiler slightly over aired. A section of the flue runs up the kitchen wall giving off heat and is captured in the space.
Without it the kitchen is cold. Been running 17 years now and only the capacitor has been replaced. Riello and Grant are a good combination.

Also keep a spare burner. Then I can bench the malfunctioning one and do a few tests.
 
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Onans archived posts on somewhere else are very helpful. On how too test the capacitor, photocell, how too test the pressures, set the air etc etc.
You won't get fobbed off by being advised to call someone in. A lot of vested interests here, probably spurned on by regs from trade bodies like oftec etc. I dare say they would like it run similar to gas safe.

I always keep my own oil boiler slightly over aired. A section of the flue runs up the kitchen wall giving off heat and is captured in the space.
Without it the kitchen is cold.

Do you seriously think that? If you're honestly advising someone to mess about with an appliance that can kill you then you're on the wrong forum.

And I'll be editing out the references to the rival forum.
 
Oil archived posts on are very helpful. On how too test the capacitor, photocell, how too test the pressures, set the air etc etc.
You won't get fobbed off by being advised to call someone in. A lot of vested interests here, probably spurned on by regs from trade bodies like oftec etc. I dare say they would like it run similar to gas safe.

I always keep my own oil boiler slightly over aired. A section of the flue runs up the kitchen wall giving off heat and is captured in the space.
Without it the kitchen is cold. Been running 17 years now and only the capacitor has been replaced.

Also keep a spare burner. Then I can bench the malfunctioning one and do a few tests.

Nobody here had a vested interest. But we are interested in others safety! You are advising people on how to set up thier boiler without any knowledge or equipment to check settings.
Anyone can say they are an engineer or nasa rocket designer! But we have no way of knowing for sure.
This is why no advice is given that may harm them.
 
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Its worse that I thought.
Directing a person for help on here is censored.
 
Norcs, you having a laugh! this will be interesting, Croppie don't close this one.

Looking back at your previous post i doubt you are qualified enough to make such comments.
 
Nobody here had a vested interest. But we are interested in others safety! You are advising people on how to set up thier boiler without any knowledge or equipment to check settings.
Anyone can say they are an engineer or nasa rocket designer! But we have no way of knowing for sure.
This is why no advice is given that may harm them.

Then shut the forum down as its all a bit pointless. As I said
 
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Oil very helpful. On how too test the capacitor, photocell, how too test the pressures, set the air etc etc.
You won't get fobbed off by being advised to call someone in. A lot of vested interests here, probably spurned on by regs from trade bodies like oftec etc. I dare say they would like it run similar to gas safe.

I always keep my own oil boiler slightly over aired. A section of the flue runs up the kitchen wall giving off heat and is captured in the space.
Without it the kitchen is cold. Been running 17 years now and only the capacitor has been replaced. Riello and Grant are a good combination.

Also keep a spare burner. Then I can bench the malfunctioning one and do a few tests.

You sir are a bell of the highest order.

Vested interest my ar$e. The only vested interest I have is to make sure somebody doesn't kill themselves or their family.
 
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You sir are a knob of the highest order.

Vested interest my ar$e. The only vested interest I have is to make sure somebody doesn't kill themselves or their family.

And you SIr are a bigger Knob.
 
If someone comes on here asking what's the best size slices for a cucumber, do you just tell them to get someone in as knives can be dangerous? LMAO.
 
And you SIr are a bigger Knob.

So you are gas safe or oftec or hetas registered?

I suspect not. Only a prize moron would advise somebody to mess with a combustion appliance without the necessary equipment to check it's safe operation.

Tell me simply how an individual with no test equipment can ensure the appliance is running safely after they have fiddled?
 
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