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Discuss rubbish 1970s piping, power flush, boiler parts in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

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Good afternoon!

This is my first post here, and looking at other threads it seems that you're a helpful, friendly bunch!

My house was built in 1976 and I have problems with the rubbish copper piping that was used in those days. Three years ago, there was a leak under the kitchen floor (over Christmas) and the plumber wanted only to replace a 12-inch section of pipe. I could see that the lagging was soaked and rotting, so I exposed all the pipe runs and found several pin pricks, and got him to replace all the pipes under the kitchen floor.

Now I've just spotted a leak above the living-room ceiling, which seems to come from a pipe connecting two rads. I have a plumber coming tomorrow, courtesy of my insurance company.

Apart from the problem recurring anyway, my big concern is that my Potterton Profile boiler is 19 years old and my service engineer is sucking his teeth about the reducing availability of spare parts. I don't mind buying a new boiler (and the obligatory TRVs), but gather that manufacturers nowadays require a power flush when it's installed; I'm concerned that this will worsen remaining weaknesses in the pipework.

One amateur's idea that I have is a few weeks before the boiler is fitted to add one of those internal leak-sealing liquids to the system - or would the power flush just wash it away?

(Perhaps the pipework might have lasted longer had service engineers checked and topped up the corrosion inhibitor, something I've been doing myself in the past few years but wasn't done before that.)

Moonraker

Since posting the above, I've been looking around this and other forums, and the overall sense that I get is that I could get the rad water tested to test the corrosion level, that a chemical flush might do, but some installers, including British Gas may advise/insist on a power flush.
 
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There are different methods of system flushing, with varying degrees of aggressiveness. Full-on powerflushing with some of the stronger chemicals may well cause a lot of damage to your pipework. Mains flushing may be OK. Leaving a relatively gentle cleaner circulating for a week or two and then a hot / cold flush may also do the trick.

Boiler manufacturers require that a system be flushed to BS BS7593:2006, which includes all the above methods, not just powerflushing. In all cases the installer should be checking and recording the water quality, and if within acceptable limits, that'll be good enough for manufacturers.

Also, if you're really worried, there is at least one manufacturer who clearly state they don't care about, nor check water quality for warranty claims, as the waterways in their boilers are huge and can cope with less than pristine systems.
 
It may not be what you want to hear, but if the pipework is in the condition you think it is, then its going to need replacing sooner rather than later, and the same could well be true for the radiators.

I'd suggest, when you're ready to change the boiler, getting the pipework pressure tested by a professional , say to 3.5bar (less if you are not going to go for a combi boiler). If there are no leaks, the pipe work is probably OK for at least a few more years. If not, there will be someone on hand to repair them, and you can get the pipework / radiators replaced with the boiler.
 
This "rubbish" pipe work has lasted 40 years. Thats not bad.

During the copper shortages in the 70s and 80s, there was some strange stuff used, but I don't think you can howl too hard at 40 years!

\If you plan to stay in the house, then stump up and re-pipe it. If you are likely to move soon, then just patch up what you have to.

Leak sealer would not help much from what you are describing.
 
The plumber got here at 0800, pulled up some chipboard flooring in the bathroom and discovered that a hot-water pipe had been secured in place by a nail that had gradually worn the copper away... He confirmed that it was "crap copper". At least he doesn't have to drain the entire system down, which was something that I was contemplating doing myself after the drip had worsened. And once he's replaced the pipe, with a bit of luck I can make good the rest of the damage myself.

Thanks for the comments so far about boiler replacement and flushing.
 
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