Shower Leaking into the kitchen

[Sarah Wykes]

We moved to a new house a few months ago and recently the ensuite shower started leaking into the kitchen. My husband had started to take away the sealant and noticed that the shower tray is not flush with the tiles, so that's likely to be where the problem is but obviously need to ensure that's the only area as there two areas of staining on the kitchen ceiling. My Father has told me that you are meant to fit a shower tray and then tile, not the other way around and we will continue to have leaks unless this is rectified. I do not really want to start looking at re-tiling though and was already considering getting an electric shower fitted as currently there's an electric pump in an upstairs cupboard which gives the shower it's water pressure but it's temperamental and sometimes doesn't work. So wondered what your thoughts were of fitting an electric shower and new shower tray and shower doors, I have attached photos of the current shower, pump and enclosure and what I thought of replacing the enclosure with and also having and electric shower fitted, as the suggested enclosure has a low tray (there may be more ultra thin corner trays available?) would the tiles still need to be disc cut and then the tray inserted?

On another note the main bathroom for some reason the previous owners installed a new bathroom without any extraction fan. I have attached a photo of the bathroom and the light fitting and was wondering whether the light fitting can be changed for an extraction light fitting (as we have one in the ensuite) and then it possibly be fitted up to the other extraction and out of the house?

View attachment Current shower and tray.JPG

View attachment Current Shower.JPG

View attachment Main Bathroom light.JPG

View attachment Shower Pump.JPG

View attachment Shower Sealant.JPG

View attachment 34745

 

[Vicdiy]

It looks like a lovely bathroom. Ideally the tiles should sit on the shower tray but not essential, re seal with sealant making sure it is squirted in to the gap as well as on top and finish with a sealant tool, my daughter's bathroom had the tiles behind the shower tray and I had no problem sealing but check and resell every six months or so, it only takes about an hour to scrape out and resell.I would definitely not change to an electric shower, the flow rate is nowhere near as good and they don't look that good. You will not need new shower tray and doors.I may be wrong but if the bathroom has a window that can be opened I don't think you have to have an extract. My bathroom is quite large and if it gets too steamy we just open the window for a couple of minutes. The problem with extracts that are linked to the light switch is they are extracting heat when you don't want them to.Shower pumps normally work or don't so I don't know what the problem is there but a new pump would cost a lot less than all the other things you were suggesting. I hope this helps.

 

[Jim Goodenough]

You could fit a tile to tray trim like Byretech Showerseal 4 Sided Ultra 10 White - 1.25m - SSWK02 | B-TECH-SSWK02
Before doing so remove the old silicone and re-point the gap flush with silicone, let it set, then fit the trim kit.

As to the shower I would definitely keep what you've got (see if you can get the pump repaired or replace). Electric showers are never as good as a mixer shower IMO.

Cheers

 

[king of pipes]

A good clean up and reseal should sort the problem out done alot worse than that, I do maintenance in a hotel the baths are always moving due to being poorly installed in the first place not had one beat me yet best of luck. kop

 

[Old Account]

You could fit a tile to tray trim like Byretech Showerseal 4 Sided Ultra 10 White - 1.25m - SSWK02 | B-TECH-SSWK02
Before doing so remove the old silicone and re-point the gap flush with silicone, let it set, then fit the trim kit.

As to the shower I would definitely keep what you've got (see if you can get the pump repaired or replace). Electric showers are never as good as a mixer shower IMO.

Cheers

Wouldn’t install the trims. Never came across any trim which was done right. They always leak and leave horrible marks. As KOP said, re sealing would the job.

 

[Vicdiy]

Wouldn’t install the trims. Never came across any trim which was done right. They always leak and leave horrible marks. As KOP said, re sealing would the job.

I agree trims start to look tatty very quickly. If the sealant starts to look tatty it can be easily scraped out and replaced.

 

[Ben-gee]

Yes plastic trims are awful, this could be a case for the classic Johnson Cristal ceramic bath quadrant trims! Silicone seal joint to do the actual sealing then cover with these 70’s beauties. If done well they look good, cover a big gap and clean up nicely....honest

 

[Vicdiy]

Yes plastic trims are awful, this could be a case for the classic Johnson Cristal ceramic bath quadrant trims! Silicone seal joint to do the actual sealing then cover with these 70’s beauties. If done well they look good, cover a big gap and clean up nicely....honest

Not with that lovely modern bathroom methinks!!!

 

[Ben-gee]

I think you're looking at the brochure pictures and not the OP's actual bathroom.

 

[Vicdiy]

I think you're looking at the brochure pictures and not the OP's actual bathroom.

Yes you are right, I only looked at the shower pump on the attached photos and assumed the main pictures were their bathroom.Why would you enclose brochure photos?

 

[Vicdiy]

Yes you are right, I only looked at the shower pump on the attached photos and assumed the main pictures were their bathroom.Why would you enclose brochure photos?

Actually I think I can answer my own question, on reading the original post more carefully she referred to these as something she might change to. Silly me I will slap my own hands, I thought it was an incredibly sleek, clean bathroom!

 

[Jim Goodenough]

Wouldn’t install the trims. Never came across any trim which was done right. They always leak and leave horrible marks. As KOP said, re sealing would the job.

Apologies was only trying to be helpful, I don't like trims myself. Good quality sanitary silicone and use Elch or Fugi tools and or course Wonder Wipes or similar to clean up with as you go!

 

[Jim Goodenough]

A good clean up and reseal should sort the problem out done alot worse than that, I do maintenance in a hotel the baths are always moving due to being poorly installed in the first place not had one beat me yet best of KOP.

Evening KOP,

Can I ask you what you find best to clean old sealant/silicone off with, after the Stanley knife blade, fore finger and thumb nails (or what's left of them of course ) ?

Cheerz

 

[Jim Goodenough]

Evening KOP,

Can I ask you what you find best to clean old sealant/silicone off with, after the Stanley knife blade, fore finger and thumb nails (or what's left of them of course ) ?

Cheerz

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Evening KOP,

Can I ask you what you find best to clean old sealant/silicone off with, after the Stanley knife blade, fore finger and thumb nails (or what's left of them of course ) ?

Cheerz

screwfixs own silicon cleaner for me

 

[Welder]

Looking at the images of the gap, I noticed the original installer hadn't even taken the plastic off the bath.

The first thing I would do is chemically clean the space where the new silicone is going. So, using something like isopropyl alcohol I'd make sure the bottom edge of the tiles is spotless and then also clean every trace of silicone off it and clean with the IPA again.

I'd then put in a support under the bath edge to make sure it cant drop again.

Then, I'd do as KOP would and reseal getting it right in and under and finishing properly.

 

[king of pipes]

No easy way jim usually a stanley knife and also the ones with the snap off blades for more reach , scrapers various sorts , tried the paint on silicone removers but not great they do soften it to a point , plenty of industrial wipes and blue roll and elbow grease really mate . Cheers kop

 

[Ben-gee]

Yes I agree, no easy way and no short cuts. That’s why my heart literally drops 3” inside me when the dreaded phrase “while you’re here could you just re-seal the bath” - they think it’s a five minute job whereas in reality it isn’t.
If one could formulate something to actually remove old silicone there’s a fortune to be made, and us plumbers will love you forever.

 

[Jim Goodenough]

MT KOP

 

[rpm]

It looks like a lovely bathroom. Ideally the tiles should sit on the shower tray but not essential, re seal with sealant making sure it is squirted in to the gap as well as on top and finish with a sealant tool, my daughter's bathroom had the tiles behind the shower tray and I had no problem sealing but check and resell every six months or so, it only takes about an hour to scrape out and resell.I would definitely not change to an electric shower, the flow rate is nowhere near as good and they don't look that good. You will not need new shower tray and doors.I may be wrong but if the bathroom has a window that can be opened I don't think you have to have an extract. My bathroom is quite large and if it gets too steamy we just open the window for a couple of minutes. The problem with extracts that are linked to the light switch is they are extracting heat when you don't want them to.Shower pumps normally work or don't so I don't know what the problem is there but a new pump would cost a lot less than all the other things you were suggesting. I hope this helps.

Vicdiy, your user name says a lot, just about every point in your reply is diy.
ie Check and reseal every six months? Are you for real?

 

[rpm]

[QUOTE
If one could formulate something to actually remove old silicone there’s a fortune to be made, and us plumbers will love you forever.[/QUOTE]
There are, some work better than others.

 

[Ben-gee]

Rpm which do you find works best, I’ve given up them but would willingly try another on a recommendation.

 

[Welder]

It looks like a lovely bathroom. Ideally the tiles should sit on the shower tray but not essential, re seal with sealant making sure it is squirted in to the gap as well as on top and finish with a sealant tool, my daughter's bathroom had the tiles behind the shower tray and I had no problem sealing but check and resell every six months or so, it only takes about an hour to scrape out and resell.I would definitely not change to an electric shower, the flow rate is nowhere near as good and they don't look that good. You will not need new shower tray and doors.I may be wrong but if the bathroom has a window that can be opened I don't think you have to have an extract. My bathroom is quite large and if it gets too steamy we just open the window for a couple of minutes. The problem with extracts that are linked to the light switch is they are extracting heat when you don't want them to.Shower pumps normally work or don't so I don't know what the problem is there but a new pump would cost a lot less than all the other things you were suggesting. I hope this helps.

Vic. Everyone is welcome on here, however may I suggest you proceed very carefully with regard to offering contradictory 'advice' to that from the boys and girls on here who make their livings from it.

Your, lets be polite, 'incomplete' knowledge is leading you to proffer an opinion which would lead a homeowner to do something illegal. This is just one small step from dangerous.

No professional can countenance your DIY approach. Customers pay us for our knowledge & professionalism - a fix, not a suck it and see bodge for 6 months.

 

[rpm]

Rpm which do you find works best, I’ve given up them but would willingly try another on a recommendation.

Silicone eater works, doesn`t remove it all but is a good start.

 

[Sarah Wykes]

I appreciate everyone's comments back and have decided to keep the original shower as per suggestions, I might need to change the pump though as its temperamental. I do really want to have a long term fix to the problem leak though and not have to reseal every 6 months whilst keeping my fingers crossed that water isn't slowly leaking somewhere without me knowing. I think to do this though the shower tray will need to come out, the bottom tiles taking off and then the tray being refitted and then the tiling done onto the tray. I don't know though how to get the tray and trap out though, any suggestions?