Shower Pump Not Always Starting - How To Test Flow Rate?

[plumbandplumber]

My daughter has a pumped shower that doesn’t always start without a bit of fiddling. I think the problem is lack of head. How can I test the flow that’s available when pump off, as I believe that the newish Salamander pump needs a min. of 2L per min?
Do I test from the shower head end of shower hose? Presumably the hose should be left in it’s normal position, but with head removed – or left on? Or have I got completely the wrong idea?
Thanks to all for any advice.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

here you go, shower head at max on rail as well

 

[Whyme]

You should thank that ^plumbandplumber^

 

[rpm]

here you go, shower head at max on rail as well

Even I can understand that!

 

[drip-dry]

here you go, shower head at max on rail as well

no wooden batons under the cylinder..a bit disappointing......:1:

 

[ShaunCorbs]

no wooden batons under the cylinder..a bit disappointing......

yea but even more concerning where's the floor ooo spooky

 

[Whyme]

Really peeves me and always had how posters dont thank

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Really peeves me and always had how posters dont thank

much better

 

[plumbandplumber]

Sorry, yes - thanks to all. Had a bit of a problem so off line for a few days.

Couple more questions if I could? Should the pipes from hw cyl to pump then onto shower mixer be in 22mm - they're 15mm at present? Also, I need to change some existing pipework, but most is in plastic. Can you use Speedfit inserts in all manufacturer's pipe, or should I use the inserts from the same manu. as pipe? If yes, how do you identify pipe manu.?

Thanks again.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sorry, yes - thanks to all. Had a bit of a problem so off line for a few days.

Couple more questions if I could? Should the pipes from hw cyl to pump then onto shower mixer be in 22mm - they're 15mm at present? Also, I need to change some existing pipework, but most is in plastic. Can you use Speedfit inserts in all manufacturer's pipe, or should I use the inserts from the same manu. as pipe? If yes, how do you identify pipe manu.?

Thanks again.

it should all be in cooper upto the flexable connections to the pump and yes i would use 22mm

 

[plumbandplumber]

OK, thanks. At present it's all plastic 15mm, so maybe part of her problem. Will change it.

Also, I couldn't find a filter under where the inlet flexi screws to pump. Should there be one there, or would it be somewhere else on pump? It's a single impeller 1.5 Bar Altech pump.

 

[JCSPLUMBING]

22mm to pump is best for flow. You should have 2-3 metres from cistern water level to the pump to activate flow switch in the pump

 

[plumbandplumber]

Thanks. Yes, I think the plumbing is all wrong. She bought the house with new bathroom already installed, so pump is nearly new. It worked for first 3 months, but now difficult to get pump to start. Have to dangle shower head really low with hot on full to get pump to kick in. It's a single Altech pump, not as stated in OP a Salamander. My error, as I have a Salamander myself. Says on label needs min 1m pos. head.

After having a look at the loft, the cold tank is on loft floor, and because it's a really old cottage with low ceilings, the shower head is just below the ceiling. So approx. 6 to 7 inches between bottom of cold tank and shower head.

I don't understand why it worked for 3 months now playing up - but obviously needs changing for neg. head model.

Should there be filters on this pump? None on the inlet coupling where flexi joins pump.