Shower tray blues | Showers and Wetrooms Advice | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss Shower tray blues in the Showers and Wetrooms Advice area at Plumbers Forums

Riley

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Gas Engineer
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Gone to a diy en suite gone wrong today.

Im just looking for options here really.

Lady had Got her suite ordered and it's been sat in her garage for 8 months so no chance of returning it.

Her hubby has had a go at fitting the shower tray and lo and behold the waste fell slap bang on a joist. Rather than seek professional help at that stage he has notched out the joist to the size of the shower waste. I've told him that he is likely to have affected the structure and its a big no no.

I'm just inquisitive as to whether there are any options other than raising the tray (once the joist is repaired of course) unfortunately the tray can't be rotated either as its 900x600

Any thoughts appreciated from you bathroom experts

Matt
 
if you turn it 180 the joist still go through the hole ? if not get a new tray with a hole in a different spot , that or as you said raise it . sorry can't be of more help fella
 
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For all the price of some trays now i reckon that would be your best option, although wastes can easily go into joists , as long as, 1, the joist is properly braced and maximum stregth is added either side of the notch, more so if upstair bathroom, 2, The notch in question isnt located at the centre of a large spanned joist, 3, As long as the joist is min 6"x2", ,
I wouldnt want to raise a tray as they just look awfull,
 
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Cheers Irish and Kris, the joist in question is tiny (botched extension methinks) and the cut out part is well over 2/3 down so I'd not be confident. I'll try and get some pics if I go back, put in my quote so we'll see what they say. I do agree Kris that raised trays look a bit naff. Cheers both
 
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Hi there have had this many times get a joiner to fit bridles across joists either side of waste position and drill joists/bridles in centre for waste pipe not really a big job ..brum
 
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Never fit a shower tray if the waste position is where a joist is. I have managed to get different trays if people have just ordered a tray without advice. Never have I just butchered a joist & frankly there is no excuse for fitting what is an unsuitable tray.
Different manufacturers have different waste positions on their trays. First thing I do when I look at a new bathroom job is measure each joist position.
 
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Thanks all for your comments. This joist has been well and truly butchered and I'm not prepared to work on it in its current state. As I said at the start the tray has been sat in their garage for 8 months so I think the chances of swapping it are slim.
 
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i can never work out why waste holes on shower trays are ever made center of the side if they were of set you would get more ways to turn the tray and miss a joist ,most stupid are square trays with center waste no chance
 
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I hate the waste hole position right in the centre of the radius of quadrant & offset quad trays.
That means anyone using the shower has to walk in directly on top of the waste fitting, which is quite big on the large flow mushroom waste tops. What stupid idea is that? More sensible to have the waste at either front corner, well away from where you stand.
 
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Thanks again all. The limitations are that the tray fits in a gap exactly it's width.

The tray cannot rotate as its 600 x 900.

Smaller waste would be an optionso thanks for that.
 
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Seing as the damage is already done and needs repairing. Why not get the joiner to brace it between the joists either side of the 'notch" like they do when fitting a loft hatch. This would leave the butchered channel to run the waste with the existing waste and tray
 
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I really cant see the problem as said on an earlier post its an easy job to fit 2 bridles one either side of waste position and cut out section of joist where trap lands to be extra safe double up your bridles..brum
 
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Notches should only be made in certain parts of a joists span - its between 0.07 and 0.25 of the span, that max depth of notch is 0.125 of the joists depth. You can notch in other areas but its not recommended and the joist should be sufficiently overside to compensate.
 
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Like I said before, a large, long solid steel fishplate with full bolts will adequately reinforce a cut joist if the damage is already done.
 
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Notches should only be made in certain parts of a joists span - its between 0.07 and 0.25 of the span, that max depth of notch is 0.125 of the joists depth. You can notch in other areas but its not recommended and the joist should be sufficiently overside to compensate.

Don't notch drill in centre of joist for waste..brum
 
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Like I said before, a large, long solid steel fishplate with full bolts will adequately reinforce a cut joist if the damage is already done.

I know where you are coming from that's your way and I also have my way both get the same job done no problem.in my opinion mine is the most simple (well I would say that ?) I really cant see what all the fuss is about a 1st year apprentice joiner could do this ..come on fellas..its not rocket science..brum
 
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