shuting of hot supply with no valve? help please

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rabu

Hi, this is the second post of same topic as my last vanished. anyway Im about to fit a bathroom with a mate of mine who has done a few befour, i have done any (im a roofer) but were ok with most of it, as the basin had 15mm isolation valves on it, so that no problem but the bath doesnt have any valves, should valves be fitted? also all the cold is mains fed, however the main problem is the bath hot feed, is there a way to stopping the flow (for me to get a valve on) without draining down system? its plumbing from 1960's (mid) and baxi bermuda 551 from 70s. cold tank i think only does heating and shower, thats in roof, hot cylinder is in kitchen airing cupboard. My other worry is that last time system was drained (new taps in batheroom, inc valves) the plumber kept switching back boiler on and off to get it to heat water as it kept knocking off, and i dont really want to be breaking the boiler. so any advise is welcome. thanks.
 
look in the airing cupboard you should see a gate valve (wheel head) usually turn that and the hot should go off. I warn you now they are notorious for passing a trickle so open all taps and as long as you are not working at the lowest point you'll be fine. You may have to go to the attic to find the gate valve. If one isn't fitted isolate tanks and drain down. 1960's eh? Watch the bath pipes they may be 3/4" and you will need to buy fittings for them, to convert to 22mm.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
the bath probs is the imperial size but should be ok as we had new taps on only about 12-18 months ago so that should be fine, as for the gate valves.... well the mains on under sink wont shut off properly, it did work until we got a dribble of it, got plumber now it wont work fully. the gate valves.. non work, to my knowlage all compleatly sezed. tank up stiars had the red top ones, but the on fitted on cylinder in cupboard.. thats sort of self coloured (old) anyway ill try to get pics if that would help. but the main thing is i dont want any damage done to boiler, since its old.. possibly bit fragile? also out hot cylinder has imersion heater and the cold tank is possibly galavansied iron or steel. thanks.
 
If you shut the mains off and open the taps all the water will run from the lowest point and not get to either the bathroom or the attic assuming they are both above the kitchen. If not out in the street shut off at toby, change stopcock change gates and take it from there. I'd get a pro in to sort this out if you can't get the tanks drained.

You could also bung the outlet at the tank try a cork or something like that. Plumbers use rubber cone shaped ones.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
well we can drain tanks as in shut of outside at metre, and open taps. thats been, and bathroom is on level with kitchen (bunglow) but my main consern is boiler, cause last time it was all drained it keps knocking off, so plumber turned it on and off few times till it got going, been fine since. fitting a valve on bath cold feed is ok, after turning of under sink as much as possible about 1/2 to 3/4 off, then open kitchen and outside tap and basin to reduce pressure then cut pipe stick valve on. that was done once befour but on outside tap supply. but can bunging be used to stop hot water? cold tank wont really be needed for bathroom as all cold is mains fed apart from shower but were not touching that. Thankyou.
 
Hi Radu. Its a bit like roofing all the water drains to the bottom of the slope.
 
this is a pic of the gate valve near hot cylinder..would this be worth trying to get moving? or does it look knackered?
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1119.jpg
    DSCN1119.jpg
    81 KB · Views: 17
Hi Give it a turn, but don't go made as the gate may stick shut and more problems will occur. I would be inclinded to tie up ball valve in cistern that feed the cylinder and run hot taps, after ten minuet or so the water will stop running. Make sure no heat via immersion heater or boiler is being used, as a rise in temp of the water in cylider will expand a little and cause a permanent drip on the hot distribution pipe. Which can make jointing difficult.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top