so confused!

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basically doing my gas courses at the moment and at work when installing room sealed fan draught flues we simply drill the wall out with a core drill making sure its got a sufficient fall back to the boiler and make good each side then put the shroud on the outside.
Now in the viper book it says flues have to be sleeved with a non combustible material is this just for open flued/non condensing boilers ? or am i being taught completely wrong..because at the end of the day once qualified i want to go out there and do the job properly and dont want to be picking up bad habits from people cutting corners etc
 
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you are "doing" a flue on a brick wall, and "reading" about a flue through a timber wall, so yes it does sound as if you are confused, "READ THE HEADING AT THE TOP OF EACH SECTION OF THE BOOK TO FIND RELEVANT ANSWER" will be my next tattoo
 
im not that stupid i was looking at making a hole through insulated cavity walls actually no need to be be patronising mate
 
kirkgas middle name is patratonising. or cocky. ill leave kirk to chose that one.
 
kirkgas middle name is patratonising. or cocky. ill leave kirk to chose that one.

definitley NOT patronising, if that is the way i have come across i sincerely, wholeheartedly apologise to anyone who felt patronised, not really ever been my style,
perhaps my attempts at humour are off the mark,

back to the OP, you asked a question I answered it, you never mentioned coring a timber wall, you also asked about sleeving being required for an open flued boiler, but why would you core a wall for an open flued boiler? as i said, sleeving with non-combustible material can only be for timber wall, I assumed (something i advise others not to do) that by saying coring you meant through a brick wall, as that is the term i use for brick, where in your viper book does it say non combustible sleeve required? the flue regs require a 25mm gap between a flue and a combustible material, so it depends on particular flue, but as to timber wall requirements i would need to reread the regs, (cant be cocky either, as i admit i dont know everything!!) if this post doesnt help then give me a bit more info and i will try again
 
Is it not best to ask a member what they mean instead of guessing and trying to belittle them ..

Be friendly or don't bother replying please..
 
Correct oldplumber, this forum should be for the GSR operatives only, for a chat on a technical basis, and a laugh.
 
Were only trying to tell ya somat mate. lol

now i know!!!!!!!!!!! all in good fun we hope???? with all the bad stuff going on it is good to come on here and get a laugh/get laughed at
 
you are "doing" a flue on a brick wall, and "reading" about a flue through a timber wall, so yes it does sound as if you are confused, "READ THE HEADING AT THE TOP OF EACH SECTION OF THE BOOK TO FIND RELEVANT ANSWER" will be my next tattoo

didnt see anything wrong with the tbh
 
OP
yes it is a confusing thing especially when you read the crud called British Standards!!

to answer your question

on a room sealed appliance it is accepted that the air duct be cemented in or sealed with a sealer the flue duct is then inside the air duct. no need to protect it further.

on an open flue it was customary to sleeve the wall to prevent damage to the flue itself in the event of wall movement and so maintain the effectiveness of the flue / prevent fumes entering the cavity.

hope that explains it (i'm sure somebody will disagree!!)
 
I seem to remember, with the first generation ff boilers (Neataheats, etc), the manufacturers supplied a metal sleeve which was put in the wall for the flue to pass through.
 
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