Steel Cold Water Pipe Changes

[scon1]

We have a 3/4 inch steel water pipe coming into the house from the mains. At the end of the pipe is a sink tab on a T connector with a copper pipe off the other branch. I need to replace the copper pipe due to corrosion and would like to place a new T further down the steel pipe. Having no experience of steel water pipes, and having read about needing stocks and dies - can anyone advise me on what is involved in cutting the pipe and adding a new T connection. What fixings and how does it seal? What tools and fixings?

Thanks in advance

 

[lame plumber]

cost you around £300 for decent hand tap set and £150 for a pipe vice and stand and £50 for steel pipe cutter if your really proffessional getting the picture why experts charge a reasonable fee to do simple jobs yet ?

 

[Ermintrude]

Lame your well off on price. He can get an awsome set from eBay for £50! ( won't actually cut steel as it's made from coke cans! )

Hire a rems Eva or amigo for £70 for week. Snap cutters and ruin tube! Then pay hire shop big bill . £800 as dry cutting and ruined head.


Or pay a pro £150 and get a male iron stopcock fitted

 

[Vee]

Johnson fittings will do the job. Cost a bit but will do good solid job for much less. There is also Plasson. They do conversion compression fittings for steel.

 

[IDCHAPPY]

Johnson fittings will do the job. Cost a bit but will do good solid job for much less. There is also Plasson. They do conversion compression fittings for steel.

I don't like VJ fittings over 2 bar, just get someone in that can work steel

 

[lame plumber]

do it right or dont do it all is my mantra

 

[Ermintrude]

I don't like VJ fittings over 2 bar, just get someone in that can work steel

Bit of dirt and they soon move off.

 

[scon1]

Called around a dozen plumbers, all too busy or not have the gear or motivation for working with steel. In the meantime the copper pipe attached to the steel is leaking where it has corroded passing through a brick wall. Water is running down and up the wall - no stop valve is fitted to the steel pipe. I was wondering if there is a solution without a van load of pro steel working gear. I could patch the copper pipe, but would like to move it further down the steel pipe.

 

[WaterTight]

Phone your local decent size company that's got a bunch of guys and been around yonks (they'll have a shop/merchants and vans everywhere) - They'll do it. The rest of the vans scooting around everywhere and clogging up your google searches won't have touched steel since they got their tech cert. Could be worse - could be lead!

Alternatively, post job and location in 'looking for a tradesman' thread here.

 

[Ermintrude]

Phone your local decent size company that's got a bunch of guys and been around yonks (they'll have a shop/merchants and vans everywhere) - They'll do it. The rest of the vans scooting around everywhere and clogging up your google searches won't have touched steel since they got their tech cert. Could be worse - could be lead!

Alternatively, post job and location in 'looking for a tradesman' thread here.

Lead loads easier

 

[snowhead]

Does the steel pipe come straight out of the ground and go to the "T" or is there any other threaded joint lower that you could unscrew?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

Lead loads easier

totally agree, bung a leadloc on it and away you go

 

[scon1]

totally agree, bung a leadloc on it and away you go

I assume the leadloc is like a compression? The pipe is located tight against the wall, would this fitting be able to be tightened? I could chisel the brick behind a little? Does the leadloc offer a T with the ability to connect copper or plastic?

Thx

 

[PlumbBobBob]

no, a leadloc is for lead not steel. you are going to have to get someone in to sort the steel pipe out for you really.

 

[SimonG]

Strip it all out back to external stop tap and get some blue alkathene laid in. Even if you get a pro in the steel might be shot, even if it isnt it wiil probably give you grief down the line.

Either way its not a make do and mend.

 

[Vee]

Plasson metric imperial compression adapters are rated to PN 16, I.e 16bar. I am sure the new Viking Johnson range has a similar performance.

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/wcssto....lang.all/hu/re/Plasson_PlassOne_Brochure.pdf

If you still worried, pick a sunny day and bring your waders. At least it's outside.

:boat: