Tank connectors

[JCSPLUMBING]

I've always used brass tank connectors in the past but this last job I done to replace a 50 gallon tank, I used plastic push fit ones as the merchant I used never had many of the other as I needed two 28mm and one 15mm. I have to say I was very impressed as the the brass ones I always worry about even though I use lsx on the washers. These were solid and a breeze to fit ie no worrying about it spinning when tightening up nut and olive.

 

[Best]

Must admit the brass tank connectors were always hard to fit and connect to. The Conex tank connectors, with the nut shape inner part, are handy.
Do you compress the olives on the brass tank fittings? I don't.

 

[JCSPLUMBING]

Not usually, no. Got another to do on Monday as this tank has split on the reinforcement and is weeping. Haven't changed none for ages, then two come at once.

 

[Best]

Reason I was asking is I generally compress the nut & olive using a brass fitting, making sure olive is same distance as tank fitting depth. Saves all that awkward work and I know the olive is then compressed and pipe then just needs pasted and put into tank fitting and nipped up.

 

[JCSPLUMBING]

I have done that previously mate but since using these push fit ones I think I'm going to stick with them. They are double the price though.

 

[Best]

I have done that previously mate but since using these push fit ones I think I'm going to stick with them. They are double the price though.

Conex tank fittings were seriously expensive. About £10 for a 28mm conex tank connector.!!
Certainly the plastic tank fittings are one plastic fitting I actually think are not too bad. There's not much head of water on them, plus they have nice sealing washers. I haven't ventured to use them yet though

 

[Staffy85]

Reason I was asking is I generally compress the nut & olive using a brass fitting, making sure olive is same distance as tank fitting depth. Saves all that awkward work and I know the olive is then compressed and pipe then just needs pasted and put into tank fitting and nipped up.

yea thats how i do it, also wrap the olive with ptfe and thats pretty much fool proof,, , really not a fan of any plastic push-fit fittings , i use the tectite range when i do , noticed they brought out push fit tank connectors but our merchant doesnt stock them! only Prestex!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

yea thats how i do it, also wrap the olive with ptfe and thats pretty much fool proof,, , really not a fan of any plastic push-fit fittings , i use the tectite range when i do , noticed they brought out push fit tank connectors but our merchant doesnt stock them! only Prestex!

why in goods green earth would you use ptfe on comp joints thats for noobies/diyers

 

[JCSPLUMBING]

yea thats how i do it, also wrap the olive with ptfe and thats pretty much fool proof,, , really not a fan of any plastic push-fit fittings , i use the tectite range when i do , noticed they brought out push fit tank connectors but our merchant doesnt stock them! only Prestex!

Don't use much push fit but the tank connectors are very good. Saves fiddling around with grips etc trying to tighten them. My first time of using them after 12-13 years of using compression so time will tell. As there is not much head of water there I think they'll be just fine

 

[Fallon1982]

I just use the brass tank connectors with the black rubber washers. Use a monument tank connector tool and tighten them up that way. No ptfe or LSX and I've never had a leak. The rubber seal should be more than enough connecting to a plastic tank.

 

[Staffy85]

why in goods green earth would you use ptfe on comp joints thats for noobies/diyers

what would you use and your reasons?

 

[townfanjon]

Speedfit tank conectors for me

 

[townfanjon]

what would you use and your reasons?

I will let you answer shaun lol

 

[ShaunCorbs]

what would you use and your reasons?

nothing or if you not sure some boss white

the only reason a joint will leak either the copper isnt in enough or you have damaged the olive

but i would pre crimp the olive

 

[Best]

Ordinary Boss White is not for potable water. Fine for heating pipes.
Jet V2 lube paste is what I use. Any paste will make the compression joint tighten up much easier and no squeal. And it does a fine seal of the joints. Got to be better than dry joint.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Ordinary Boss White is not for potable water. Fine for heating pipes.
Jet V2 lube paste is what I use. Any paste will make the compression joint tighten up much easier and no squeal. And it does a fine seal of the joints. Got to be better than dry joint.

its been used for years and didnt harm any one

 

[Best]

its been used for years and didnt harm any one

I know. I used it on just about everything for years, and so did the plumbers before me!
Just now it isn't for potable water and someone could realise you are using it and you would look incompetent. (The "I am an engineer" read the Internet types we recently hear of).
I always assumed the contents of Boss White was harmless, but apparently we can't use it.
It is very cheap, but it hardens in the tub and the very expensive Jet V2 stuff doesn't harden and therefore works out not too bad as no waste

 

[townfanjon]

Jet blue if owt

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I know. I used it on just about everything for years, and so did the plumbers before me!
Just now it isn't for potable water and someone could realise you are using it and you would look incompetent. (The "I am an engineer" read the Internet types we recently hear of).
I always assumed the contents of Boss White was harmless, but apparently we can't use it.
It is very cheap, but it hardens in the tub and the very expensive Jet V2 stuff doesn't harden and therefore works out not too bad as no waste

you need some rape sead oil softens it

 

[Best]

you need some rape sead oil softens it

I used raw Linseed oil, - same oil that you can add to timber etc, but not edible.
Think it is an ingredient of Boss White. But when they produced Boss White in the plastic tubs I got fed up with it with a hard thick skin on it from new. I found I was throwing most of the tubs out eventually as not really using huge amounts of paste anymore.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I used raw Linseed oil, - same oil that you can add to timber etc, but not edible.
Think it is an ingredient of Boss White. But when they produced Boss White in the plastic tubs I got fed up with it with a hard thick skin on it from new. I found I was throwing most of the tubs out eventually as not really using huge amounts of paste anymore.

i find the only reason it goes hard is its been on the stockiest shelves for ages and gone out of date

 

[Best]

i find the only reason it goes hard is its been on the stockiest shelves for ages and gone out of date

I also suspect that. But the metal tins it used to come in definitely kept it in good condition. Only had to add some Linseed oil & give it a stir if it became a bit thick. Big difference when the plastic tubs came, for some reason.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I also suspect that. But the metal tins it used to come in definitely kept it in good condition. Only had to add some Linseed oil & give it a stir if it became a bit thick. Big difference when the plastic tubs came, for some reason.

yea cant beat the metal tubs (its because air can get in with the plastic tubs)

 

[Staffy85]

the only reason a joint will leak either the copper isnt in enough or you have damaged the olive

i would agree with this and then add "or the quality of the olive isnt good enough". iv done comp joints where they have been assembled perfectly, not over torqued and not on the p155 and fully shipped, and still get a wheep which needs disassembling and sorting out, not all the time but it has been brass olives that have done this, {on new 1/4 turn ball valves!} , think ptfe tape is just the right way to fix this, and me tightening down an olive and then wrapping it before i fill up the tank just ensures i wont be draining it down to potentially pull it apart to then wrapp it,

 

[ShaunCorbs]

i would agree with this and then add "or the quality of the olive isnt good enough". iv done comp joints where they have been assembled perfectly, not over torqued and not on the p155 and fully shipped, and still get a wheep which needs disassembling and sorting out, not all the time but it has been brass olives that have done this, {on new 1/4 turn ball valves!} , think ptfe tape is just the right way to fix this, and me tightening down an olive and then wrapping it before i fill up the tank just ensures i wont be draining it down to potentially pull it apart to then wrapp it,

Brass olives on old pipe copper olives on new/modern 22mm