Tap compressor and isolator valve advice

[JuliMacarthur]

I'm going to warn you that I am a complete idiot and I'm not a plumber.

I've changed a number of taps in my life but recently come up with an issue in changing a kitchen tap in my new house.

My pipes etc use the standard 15mm fittings as done the tap that was originally installed. I bought myself a nice new Grohe tap (used them before), but didn't realise the flex pipe fittings are 12mm. Now, my problem was finding a way to fit the tap to the 15mm isolator valve.

I bought a reducer but my isolator valve has identical ends, threads to connect pipes I would guess. The old tap flex pipe would just screw onto the thread but my reducer from 15mm to 12mm, is a thread on the 15mm end so I had to buy a new isolator with a regular end and the other end with a compression bit to screw the reducer into (service valve?).

Now my pipe looks like Frankenstein!

Will this completely screw up my system, and are there any other ways which might be better? It's not leaking and the tap works fine, but I'd be grateful for advice

There is supposed to be a photo here but don't know if you can see it, if not, please let me know!

Ta,

Juli

 

[Last Plumber]

Are those fittings, Compression fittings with the nuts and olives removed ?

I can't see them properly.

 

[Best]

Hello Juli. It depends what type of 12 to 15mm fitting you got.
If the 15mm end is just flat faced, then it is a male thread and will suit those new isolating valves you used just fine.
But if the 15mm end has an internal taper made for a nut and olive, then you should have used a piece of copper pipe between it and the standard isolating valves for copper you previously had.
You could also have just used a couple of 1/2" x 15mm female straights for the two 12 x 15mm adapters to go into using ptfe tape, so to take you onto 15mm copper, although that would have added fittings it would have meant original valves would have remained.
I wouldn't worry about what fittings you use, as long as they are suitable so they don't ever leak, as that doesn't look a place on show

 

[Last Plumber]

It was those Cone shapes inside the fittings that worried me a bit.
I never use those fittings for that purpose for the reasons 'best' has given above.

I know a lot of plumbers in my part of the world who do what you appear to have done and get away with it but it's not something I would do personally.

Like Best said. Flat faced fittings if you're doing that !

 

[ShaunCorbs]

They look fine and aslong as they don't leak your good

Did you replace the fibre washers in the valves ?

 

[JuliMacarthur]

Are those fittings, Compression fittings with the nuts and olives removed ?

I can't see them properly.

Yes the bit below the flex pipe fitting is a reducer compression with no nut or olive. So the top is 12mm and the bottom is 15mm.

It's the only thing I could find which allowed me to reduce to fit the flex fitting.

Hello Juli. It depends what type of 12 to 15mm fitting you got.
If the 15mm end is just flat faced, then it is a male thread and will suit those new isolating valves you used just fine.
But if the 15mm end has an internal taper made for a nut and olive, then you should have used a piece of copper pipe between it and the standard isolating valves for copper you previously had.
You could also have just used a couple of 1/2" x 15mm female straights for the two 12 x 15mm adapters to go into using ptfe tape, so to take you onto 15mm copper, although that would have added fittings it would have meant original valves would have remained.
I wouldn't worry about what fittings you use, as long as they are suitable so they don't ever leak, as that doesn't look a place on show

I'm not really sure if it has a 'taper' the fitting came with nuts and olives at either end - I guessed these would be for connecting to pipes and there were no pipes to connect, just isolator and the flex compressor.

It's definitely not on show and its been there for two days so far and hasn't leaked - the kitchen will be replaced in a year or so (everything in this house I've moved into is a bodge job so I've been trouble shooting all the problems).

What do you mean by cone shapes?

They look fine and aslong as they don't leak your good

Did you replace the fibre washers in the valves ?

No, how do I do that?

Thanks so much for replying all of you, super helpful!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes the one below the flex pipe fitting, its a reducer so the top is 12mm and the bottom is 15mm.

It's the only thing I could find which allowed me to reduce to fit the flex fitting.

You might find the top flex to be 3/8 thread tool station have some good reducers that fit in 15mm Iso valves

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Flexible+Connectors/sd2807/Tap+Tail+Adaptors/p63663

 

[JuliMacarthur]

You might find the top flex to be 3/8 thread tool station have some good reducers that fit in 15mm Iso valves

Not sure how I'd use that.

Here is a crappy mock up of before and after with the fittings:

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Not sure how I'd use that.

Here is a crappy mock up of before and after with the fittings:

View attachment 27368

They would just go into the old valve (same as you took out) like a piece of pipe and nut and olive would be needed also

 

[JuliMacarthur]

They would just go into the old valve (same as you took out) like a piece of pipe and nut and olive would be needed also

Ah, ok. I think I might get it. I'll have a look and see if I could do it this way as it's a bit tight under there with all the extra fitting added.

 

[Stoney Ground]

Taps work, no leaks and you can't see pipes when cupboard is full.
1 Cose cupboard door
2 Pour glass of wine
3 Enjoy your weekend

Life's to short arty: