Testing a pump with a multi meter | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Testing a pump with a multi meter in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.

Nostrum

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Messages
3,396
Hi Lads,

Got a chance to do some contract breakdown work and just been trying to remember all the stuff I used to do has made me realise i've forgotten a bit! All the new stuff i've learnt must have pushed the old stuff out my ears!

How do you test a pump with a multimeter to confirm it's knackered or lazy? The old screwdriver trick might sound a bit slap dash if they ask me!

Cheers in advance

Sam
 
Just in case that doesn't make sense, an seeing a the edit buttons off sick, I mean the resistance of the windings (i think)
 
I have never tested one with a multi meter. I do the screwdriver trick, or more often than not you can tell by the sound.
 
I've had a couple of boilerhouses drown in the bad weather recently (completely flooded!). I had to buzz a lot of stuff out including 3 phase pumps. I didn't worry about resistance of the windings, I was just looking for continuity and whether or not they were earthing down.
 
If there is 240 to the pump and she aint spinning, she needs binning!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The only time I test pumps is when something is blowing fuses on a s or y plan!
 
Knackered pump will usually give you a resistance to earth L-E or N-E as croppie has said... Also infinite L-N or 0 ohms L-N is knackered too!

Lazy pump wouldn't show much I doubt as it's more likely mechanical rather than pump windings IMHO :)
 
A new pump should show about 150 ohms across the windings.
The higher the ohms the slower the pump will be working
 
Remember, resistance readings will alter with the speed settings of the pump.

As Diamond has said, if you have a short curcuit, then it's time to replace the pump. As a rule of thumb you can assume:
(On a Grundfos 15/50 set at speed 3)
[FONT=Calibri,Calibri][FONT=Calibri,Calibri]Less than 1 Ohm = Motor windings burnt out – Replace pump or pump head
Mega Ohms/Infinity/Overload = Motor windings burnt out – Replace pump or pump head
120 – 200 Ohms = Motor windings O.K.


[/FONT]
[/FONT]
 
A new pump should show about 150 ohms across the windings.
The higher the ohms the slower the pump will be working
Is it not something like 160 ohms on first speed to around 60 on third speed? Or there abouts.
 
I've always assumed that my readings as above are about right.

If it's not infinity or closed circuit, then the chances are it's ok.

There's a lot to be said for the old screwdriver test!! At least for us domestic plumbers.
 
Cheers all for the input. I thought I had a figure of 100 ohms kicking about in there somewhere, but the above will do me fine thanks. Just need to have it tattooed across my knuckles bad boy biker style so I don't forget again .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

  • Locked
That's brilliant. Thanks for your help
Replies
8
Views
2K
D
Replies
3
Views
2K
Back
Top