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bassmonster

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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562
My brother and I changed over a hot water cylinder today. It was in the most awkward place you can imagine. It was right in the corner of the loft and the only way to access the nuts is to crawl on the joists and doing squats like you're about to go for a dump. My knees are gone, my back aching, hands feeling rough.

After changing the cylinder the hot water decides to stop working. Divertor valve is fine, flow is piping hot but the return out of the cylinder is stone cold. We then spent over 2 hours getting rid of the airlock. Is there an easy way of getting rid of the airlock.?

Any way, just wanted to say that plumbers have my utmost respect. Its not an easy job in any shape or form.
 
Probably airlock in coil.

Luxury! Now do that everyday. I have so much loft insulation in my lungs that when I die I can be used as a space blanket!
 
Probably airlock in coil.

Luxury! Now do that everyday. I have so much loft insulation in my lungs that when I die I can be used as a space blanket!
your going to hell but your internal thermal insulation will keep you warm,plus you will probably achieve band A status
 
I normally come up into a 22-15-22 end reduced tee, extend the 15 up a bit with an aav or vent and take the branch straight across to the cylinder.
 
as said , above you need to vent the air out of the top of the coil not the top of the cylinder. You could use a AAV but it would take time to clear the air, I have used drain off cocks (the wrong way up) or a simple service valve. After the air is vented you could fit a AAV above the service valve, theres a few ways of doing it.
One other tip, don't do the next loft job without putting some boards down to work off, balancing on joists as you have found is VERY hard work. If the customer wont pay for them take your own.
 
Thanks guys..

After having a nightmare of a time opening the zone valves and divertor valve, draining the sytem twice, this is what i did..I don't know if it was the right thing to do but it worked. I tapped into flow immediately after the boiler, just before the cylinder with a tee from 22-->15mm connected to a drain valve. i then connected a hose to the drain valve and fired up DHW. Then i slowly opened the drain valve, just for enough water to trickle out. Left it running for about 20 minutes. To my absolute delight, everything was working...

townfanjon, noted about using boards....
 
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