Through-wall tap mounting advice

[Tiger Boats]

Hi.
I'm looking for a bit of advice. First, I'm not a plumber, 2nd it's not a house, it's on a boat (probably doesn't make any difference).
Maybe somewhat naively I've bought some wall taps on the internet and, by the time I've paid postage both ways, I might as well suck it up and not return them.

Basically my questions are
Are these suitable for use as through wall taps? If so how do I mount them?
My two ideas at the moment are either to obtain a backing nut and tighten against the tap body through the backing of 9mm ply or to mount the assembly on two munsen rings - but I don't feel pipe clips on the pipe would be secure enough and would allow play in the tap through the wall.

Note the angle of the spigot connector is correct for my usage as it's going into a flexible hose to a wall connector.

All the advice I can find on the net refers to longer, threaded tap bodies with backing nut and front fixings which these obviously are not.

Many thanks for any advice.

 

[Roy_66]

Would two of these make a tidy job?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/floma...CBXtRbLQrlVTTHSMlWBoCjJ4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can find some BSP elbows to connect your assembly to those. Practise getting the right number of laps of PTFE tape or whatever method you prefer on the BSP threads. You might prefer loctite 55 cord to standard PTFE tape (I've yet to convert).

Only drill the three holes for each mount plate once all the plumbing assembled and pressure tested (hard to get the exact centres right otherwise)

Suggest have a go with a scrap plank of wood and practice/check it all out.

For final assembly I'll leave the mastic/sealer choice to your boating expertise. Assume it's a wooden boat. I would avoid a ply plate as it will surely delaminate. Nice bit of hardwood offcut?

Can you make the stubs a tad longer for the Munsens (depends how you want to be able to take it to bits)

Good luck and happy showering?

Alternative would be shower valve inside the boat and just one combined stop on the outside?

Cheers,

Roy (very amateur plumber, and now landlubber, I have sailed boats in my very dim and distant past)

P.S. Screwfix or BES.co.uk for any tricky bits

 

[Ben-gee]

With similar items I would not use flexible connectors.

I make it all up with compression fittings and soldered copper pipes. Fix it all to a piece of 18mm wbp ply using pipe clips and strap band as necessary.

Once it’s all aligned , screw the ply into position and finish the wall in front of it (tiles/timber/wallboard etc).

You obviously have to be careful to set the board at the correct depth.

Might be easier to bin it and buy a purpose made setup that has a brass body with fixing lugs and a flat back, this is just screwed into place. Most also have some play in the finishing set, ie depth setting has a 10-15mm adjustment.

But you can use what you have already, it’ll just be a bit more fiddly.

 

[Tiger Boats]

Would two of these make a tidy job?

You can find some BSP elbows to connect your assembly to those. Practise getting the right number of laps of PTFE tape or whatever method you prefer on the BSP threads. You might prefer loctite 55 cord to standard PTFE tape (I've yet to convert).

Only drill the three holes for each mount plate once all the plumbing assembled and pressure tested (hard to get the exact centres right otherwise)

Suggest have a go with a scrap plank of wood and practice/check it all out.

Does this mean the support for the taps is the two wall plates, one at each end? What's to stop, for instance, pressure on the tap flexing the assembly? It doesn't seem very positive. Are these valves suitable or should I swap them for something else?

I make it all up with compression fittings and soldered copper pipes. Fix it all to a piece of 18mm wbp ply using pipe clips and strap band as necessary.

Once it’s all aligned , screw the ply into position and finish the wall in front of it (tiles/timber/wallboard etc).


.

I like this idea. If the mounting board is behind the assembly and solidly mounted then it can’t flex. I feel like a right eejit spending that money on something that I’m basically having to bodge.

 

[Roy_66]

Does this mean the support for the taps is the two wall plates, one at each end? What's to stop, for instance, pressure on the tap flexing the assembly? It doesn't seem very positive. Are these valves suitable or should I swap them for something else?

I like this idea. If the mounting board is behind the assembly and solidly mounted then it can’t flex. I feel like a right eejit spending that money on something that I’m basically having to bodge.

The wall plates are designed to support a BSP tap. As you have the hose as well I would include at least two Munsens. It won't look pretty but not sure of the requirements there. Is the boat wooden, metal, GRP? (Assume not concrete, but it's possible. . . )