Toilet feed pipe leaking at valve

[loftybloke]

Hi All

I'm hoping for some advice please. I noticed a drip from the top of the valve in the pipe which fills the cistern of our toilet.

I tried to tighten it with a pair of adjustable wrenches but it doesn't seem to matter which way I turn which nut, it still leaks when i open the valve again. I (of course) seem to have made the leak faster by trying to fix it.

Can anyone help please?

 

[snowhead]

Are you sure it's the valve and that it's not leaking down the nylon thread from the cistern?

If it is the valve, there's a fibre washer betwen the valve and nylon fill valve.
Isolate and replace it.

same as;
Fibre washers 1/2 to fit 15mm tap connector per 10


Be carefull screwing the nut back onto the valve, it's easy to cross thread it.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

TBH when they start leaking best to replace the fill valve (fluid master 45b pro) and a new fibre washer

 

[loftybloke]

Snowhead, yes the water comes up from the bit with the screw to open/close the valve below the nut. The nylon bit isn't wet.

Shaun is that easy for a complete novice to do?

Thanks

 

[loftybloke]

TBH when they start leaking best to replace the fill valve (fluid master 45b pro) and a new fibre washer

Fluidmaster 1/2" Brass Shank Valve Bottom Entry - Toolstation
I'm not sure where this part goes? Is that in the cistern, as the leak is in the pipe leading to the cistern

 

[loftybloke]

Are you sure it's the valve and that it's not leaking down the nylon thread from the cistern?

If it is the valve, there's a fibre washer betwen the valve and nylon fill valve.
Isolate and replace it.

same as;
Fibre washers 1/2 to fit 15mm tap connector per 10


Be carefull screwing the nut back onto the valve, it's easy to cross thread it.

Thanks. Forgive me for being ignorant, but the water is coming from below the top nut of the valve rather than where it meets the nylon thread. Would your solution stop this too?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Fluidmaster 1/2" Brass Shank Valve Bottom Entry - Toolstation
I'm not sure where this part goes? Is that in the cistern, as the leak is in the pipe leading to the cistern

Yes take a pic with the cistern lid off to confirm please

 

[rpm]

Snowhead, yes the water comes up from the bit with the screw to open/close the valve below the nut. The nylon bit isn't wet
Thanks

If you mean that smaller sized pipe just under the top nut then it is time to start again with a complete new valve. At this moment in time you don't need a new fill valve.

 

[loftybloke]

Yes take a pic with the cistern lid off to confirm please

 

[loftybloke]

If you mean that smaller sized pipe just under the top nut then it is time to start again with a complete new valve. At this moment in time you don't need a new fill valve.

Thanks, I think I'm in over my head a bit now. If I were to replace that whole thing with one of these, would that do it?
15MM ISOLATING BALL STOP VALVE COMPRESSION JOINT CP ( pack of 2 ): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

[rpm]

No that one is different at one end, trying to find a link for you, back in a moment.

 

[rpm]

Service Valve 15mm - Toolstation 62220

See the difference now?

 

[loftybloke]

No that one is different at one end, trying to find a link for you, back in a moment.

Much appreciated, thanks. There is a B & Q near to us thats still open if that helps

 

[loftybloke]

Service Valve 15mm - Toolstation 62220

See the difference now?

Yes, its the same as this right?
Compression Ball Valve (Dia)15mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q

 

[rpm]

Much appreciated, thanks. There is a B & Q near to us thats still open if that helps

Bank holiday Monday, think they shut at 4pm. You will have to turn the water off upstream to change it though.

 

[rpm]

Enter compression service valve on B&Q site. Part number 05271948
Nut and olive one end with nut and fibre washer the other end

 

[loftybloke]

Enter compression service valve on B&Q site. Part number 05271948
Nut and olive one end with nut and fibre washer the other end

Thank you

 

[Old Account]

I definitely would go with a brass threaded fill valve as the plastic ones cause a lot of trouble in the future.

 

[rpm]

I definitely would go with a brass threaded fill valve as the plastic ones cause a lot of trouble in the future.

Those valves are troublesome, change the toilet service valve first then easy to change the fill valve if required.

 

[Old Account]

I'd change both straight away. Doesn't cost much

 

[rpm]

I'd change both straight away. Doesn't cost much

If it ain`t broke don`t fix it! Some people are living on the breadline now.

 

[Old Account]

If it ain`t broke don`t fix it! Some people are living on the breadline now.

That's true, but if you got a couple of pounds left then I'd change both parts.
I clearly understand your point @rpm and agree it's the breadline

 

[loftybloke]

If I'm honest guys I don't know which bits you're talking about
I'm going to have to ring someone as I'm not massively confident replacing the leaky bit if i'm honest, I don't want to do anymore damage than I've already done in making the leak worse!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Best option tbh

 

[Old Account]

If I'm honest guys I don't know which bits you're talking about
I'm going to have to ring someone as I'm not massively confident replacing the leaky bit if i'm honest, I don't want to do anymore damage than I've already done in making the leak worse!

That's fair enough, if you do not feel confident then get an engineer out to solve this problem.

However, you will need to isolate the water first before changing the isolation valve. To test if you isolated the water you could flush the toilet and you will see if the toilet still fills with water or not.

Afterwards you could change either just the isolation valve or both fill valve and isolation valve with a fibre washer.