towel rail valve leaking | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss towel rail valve leaking in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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M

Mark Edney

Hi there

I have just installed my first bathroom (~well almost finished) and am having a problem with the new towel rail valves i have fitted to the new towel rail. (angled valves). When heated up they are fine but when cold i have a leak. I have checked both screw connections and they are ok.the problem appears to be coming from under the valve head (where you turn it off and on ) i think they are lockshield valve types. My first thought was that the packing gland was at fault but i don't know how to get to the inside of the valve itself?? on say a radiator valve i can just pull off the cover and accesss the inside. there is a screw top cover to the valve but i cannot remove the turning head. I havent tried with much force as i don't want to damage it if its not supposed to come apart.
Please help!! If i cannot remove the on /off head valve is there a way of sealing it without compromising the on/off function of the valve?? there is only about a 1mm gap around the moving part. link below shows similar valves.
http://www.****************/shop/He...ed+Towel+Rail+Valve+Angled/d230/sd2762/p22427

hope you can help!!
 
It's likely to be either of the following.
1. inadequate PTFE around the thread that goes into the radiator - or not tightened up enough (did you use a proper rad key to tighten them?)
2. bad compression seal where the pipework enters the valve.
For the thread that goes into the rad I normally give a good 10 turns of PTFE running with the thread so that screwing the valve into the rad doesn't cause the PTFE to unwind.
For the compression I hand tighten or use adjustables until it bites then give it a 1/2 turn to compress the olive. I don't use any PTFE on the compression side at all, it's not necessary and I found it to actually cause more leaks than it prevented when I was learning the trade.
There's a remote chance that the valve to rad tail seal is leaking but I've never had on leak there, I think they just don't commonly leak from there.
Anyway it's not likely to be a packing gland or o-ring seal on the lockshield part itself if they're new, it's common to think a valve is leaking from one point and later find out it's somewhere else and running along.
 
Just had a thought, you didn't solder close to the valves did you?
You need to give a good 12-18 inches from a connected rad valve to prevent the heat damaging the rubber seal inside them. Even then it's advisable to have a wet rag round them.
 
I installed a set a customer bought a few weeks back and couldn't get to the packing gland, customer had to get a new set. Not impressed with the quality.
 
i wrapped around ptfe tape around 12 times , and there was a tight seal , i did use proper rad key to tighten. this joint and compression joint are ok. the problem appears to be coming from underneath the valve head.
 
Well I knocked the crap out the ones I had to install and couldn't get at the gland nut, so I would say yes.
 
cheers for your help and i,m gonna do the same....hammer time!!
 
mark don't get your hammer out yet! the very end of the cover unscrews to reveal a screw to take off the cover proper.
 
Not on the ones the cust got for me. That's exactly what I thought though steve, wouldn't budge even with pump pliers on it.
 
i unscrewed the cover and all that was there was the threads for the screw i had just removed.I have seen ones with a spindle and the head just pulls off but these ones appear to be different, as though you are not supposed to get to the gland. last time i buy cheap ones off internet!!
 
I've had the same - they felt cheap when I fitted them.

Sometimes if you open it fully it stops the leak (this is what I did with my leaky ones).
 
Lol i got them same valves in the bathroom, I was taking a dump and lent my hand on it and turned it and the bugger wouldnt stop leaking.

I solved it though after going into work and grabbing some ptfe and LSX from the boys. you can try tighten the packing gland nut, untwist the silver bit at the end and it should pull off. i then undone the packing gland, make sure the heating it off because i'll admit it did feel like it could of popped out haha, ptfe the thread and put it back in then i smeared some lsx around the lockshield part also. goodluck

22427.jpg
 
Last edited:
was about to change them but thought i'd try one last time to get head off with a big flat srewdriver. valve head almost bent back on itself... i turned valve a bit ands tried again...then a bit more of a turn and hey presto it came off!!! the relief.... tightened gland nut about half turn and job sorted...thanks for all your replies
 
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