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The couple ive used you zip tie to the pipe and have a sensor on and are wired into the fuse spur ( i think). Try to keep em inside were ever possible
 
I've used trace heating tapes to prevent freezing in winter. Is it this sort of idea?
 
Anybody on here done this before? Is it cost effective? How do you install it? I remember from college that it is a cable attached to a pipe to prevent dead legs etc is it worth doing?


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Do you mean the self regulating heat tape (such as H-watt) used under insulation on hot water supply pipes, so that a secondary return is not required? (go on say no. LOL) If so they can be on a time clock supply & as you say don't require a stat as they only heat when a section of pipe drops below 55deg C. 10 years + ago they were all the rage as more energy efficient than a secondary system by the time you take into account heat loss & pump running costs (not to say the capital costs) but not so sure now? PipeLine use to sell it.
 
Do you mean the self regulating heat tape (such as H-watt) used under insulation on hot water supply pipes, so that a secondary return is not required? (go on say no. LOL) If so they can be on a time clock supply & as you say don't require a stat as they only heat when a section of pipe drops below 55deg C. 10 years + ago they were all the rage as more energy efficient than a secondary system by the time you take into account heat loss & pump running costs (not to say the capital costs) but not so sure now? PipeLine use to sell it.

That's what I want it for, to use instead of a secondary return because as I understand it you can't have a return on a combi?? The place has had a legionella audit and the hot water draw off takes a while to 2 of the basins they have and I'm guessing the trace heating would help this alot


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What is it for Lee ?

It's for the job I spoke to you about the other day. Just keeping my options open. Was thinking instead if putting an unvented system in with a secondary return maybe put a combi in with some trace heating on it would maybe be cheaper and more efficient for the customer?? Just think an unvented may be a bit much for 4 basins, a shower amd a kitchen sink? Could be wrong though


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Trace heating wont get it hot enough to kill of legionella bugs, It would cost a fortune to run at 60° .
 
boiler new location could solve your problem , how far are those taps from the boiler if they are more then 12m then relocating boiler is a option rather then uhwc or have a heat only biler to do ch and then install 10L uhwu under the unit for those far taps there is many options .
 
boiler new location could solve your problem , how far are those taps from the boiler if they are more then 12m then relocating boiler is a option rather then uhwc or have a heat only biler to do ch and then install 10L uhwu under the unit for those far taps there is many options .

I did suggest instant water heaters at the outlets but ideally they would like to lose the CWSC and F+E tank in the loft. Thats why i thought maybe upgrade to a Combi or an Unvented. If we do it the way you suggest with heat only boiler for CH can we do away with the tanks? As in will the heating be a sealed system with that sort of boiler?


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Sounds more like a job for a locally installed installed electrically heated un-vented (or vented) cylinder you can get smaller units 30, 50, 70, 100L one, which can be mounted, in some cases, horizontally or vertically & floor or wall mounted. If you can find a space. Of course it will need to be sized correctly for usage.
Heat tape requires very good insulation (foil faced rock wall or kooltherm) properly installed other wise the losses are too great. just for the record it is only designed to keep the water that is drawn through the pipe up to 55 once it is drawn through them first thing. i.e. it can't be used as a replacement heater being supplied only by a 13amp max supply.
 
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