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Discuss trouble flushing toilet in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums
thats a 2 part, nothing wrong with it!
more likely peice of the diaphragm has lodged in basin rim somewhere.
or fill level not right
I wish all toilets had a nice 2 part syphon like that! As said above^^ it should be fine.
Take the syphon apart again and check for bits of the old washer down inside the final bit of syphon where it goes towards the pan. Also check the new washer hasn't got folded and that any spring is still doing its job. I assume you have enough water level in cistern?
I wish all toilets had a nice 2 part syphon like that! As said above^^ it should be fine.
Take the syphon apart again and check for bits of the old washer down inside the final bit of syphon where it goes towards the pan. Also check the new washer hasn't got folded and that any spring is still doing its job. I assume you have enough water level in cistern?
Yes. I took it all apart and couldn't see anything I thought that after changing the diaphragm it would of been able to flush as the old one was split.
I am going to replace fill valve as it's playing up too
I would wish the same that People arent that lazy and installing 2 part siphons a lot easier for the next engineer
So sensible those 2 parts! Last one I replaced the diaphragm was while I was doing another job in the house. I had exact washer (round type with square cuts outs on edges) and took me only seconds to replace that I didn't charge the customer for it. Single very sexy fit lady though.
is the plug on the bell in the hole for max flush?
you have put it together wrong give me 5 will get a pic
so simple, but if you put it in wrong order it doesnt work
View attachment 25463
btw i mean the blue plastic washer and rubber washer needs to go under the lip (lines a bit close to the yellow pin and dont want to confuse you) any problems come back and will do a step by step pic set for you,
and another vote for the Fluidmaster Pro 45 with brass shank
Yes. I took it all apart and couldn't see anything I thought that after changing the diaphragm it would of been able to flush as the old one was split.
I am going to replace fill valve as it's playing up too
might be wrong but will a fluidmaster (as suggested by 'best') fit, seem to remember it touches the side of the cistern or syphon stopping it closing,I would play safe and get a conventional bottom entry ballvalve with a telescopic arm to attach the float ( city plumbing or travis perkins)
AM I RIGHT OTHER MEMBERS, if the syphon was the other way round a fluidmaster would fit comfortably,maybe thats why they fitted a torbeck.
Sometimes the fluidmasters would hit against the cistern, but depends if the hole in base of cistern is extremely tight in the corner or not and size of cistern for syphon distance etc.
All the cisterns with conventional syphons that I replace fill valves have the valve to the right and nearly all suit a Fluidmaster.
The Fluidmaster has its float off centre on the riser - so can be positioned usually with the float as far as possible away from cistern wall. It is a job you have to sometimes just try the valve in position to see if it fits before thinking of using it.
You don't want to fit a conventional arm ball valve if on high mains pressure supply.
Some other equilibrium valves have a short arm like Torbecks have and are handy.
Wirquin do a valve that has a float that works in an outer case so won't matter if it touches anything.
Torbecks give trouble and most on this forum seem to avoid them now
you have put it together wrong give me 5 will get a pic
so simple, but if you put it in wrong order it doesnt work
View attachment 25463