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S

stevo72

I am attempting to remove two steel water tanks from my attic in a chalet bungalow. They are both about 2ft x 2ft x 3ft in size and are connected with a metal coupling as shown in the photos. The attic width/height is only a little bigger than the tanks so I only have access to the front of one of the tanks. I can only turn the front tank 10 degrees at best. I cannot move the tanks forward over the hatchway because they are impeded by a live water pipe. I have sawn through the front of the first tank to get hand access to the coupling. I'm not familiar with this type of coupling and I don't know if it can be loosened. My current plan is to keep sawing through the first steel tank until I can squash the sides down to pull the tank forward over the hatchway and saw through the coupling. But if anyone knows an easier method I would really appreciate hearing about it.

water tank 1.jpg

water tank 2.jpg

water tank 3.jpg
 
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In with a grinder if all else fails !
Use a fine cutting blade and split the fitting nut .
Be carefull and wear goggles and face protection as sparks will fly !
I had to cut end of an rsj in the summer in a bit of a hurry for roofers I had been using a mag drill all morning drilling bolt holes so must have been coated in cutting oil !
Next thing I know got a roofer rubbing my legs looked down trousers were on fire !
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In with a grinder if all else fails !
Use a fine cutting blade and split the fitting nut .
Be carefull and wear goggles and face protection as sparks will fly !
I had to cut end of an rsj in the summer in a bit of a hurry for roofers I had been using a mag drill all morning drilling bolt holes so must have been coated in cutting oil !
Next thing I know got a roofer rubbing my legs looked down trousers were on fire !

Thanks for the suggestion but I'll avoid tools that create sparks since there is literally no space to get to burning material behind the tank.
 
If hole saw isn't in your tool box drill lots of small holes in a circle around fitting then with a cold chisel and hammer link holes and away it comes. If access is a bugger for hammering use an sds drill with chisel attachment! Ear plugs obviously
 
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Recip saw down and around it.
don't use an angle grinder in a confined space......

Funny how we all look at things from a different point of view ?
To my mind a recip saw is far more likely to kick and take much longer ?
I guess it is what you get used to as have spent years using grinders and cutters inches away from my feet and face in confined spaces like trenches and roof spaces it is second nature to me not something I really have to think about a bit like chainsaws but to others they are scary beasts !
Holesaw sounds fine until you try it without a pilot for the first time !
 
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Agree you would like a right arse, but your only heating the nut. No difference from precautions when soldering in in roof space.
We quoted on some heritage work and you should have seen the list of rules you had to comply with before any hotworks could be undertaken then the hours afterwards for a cooling period !
I always used put the fire prevention boys in on my sites to cover myself
 
We quoted on some heritage work and you should have seen the list of rules you had to comply with before any hotworks could be undertaken then the hours afterwards for a cooling period !
I always used put the fire prevention boys in on my sites to cover myself
I know what you mean. Heritage, or period homes; I know how hot it gets in mine with wife daughter and sons girlfriend. PMT.
 
In with a grinder if all else fails !
Use a fine cutting blade and split the fitting nut .
Be carefull and wear goggles and face protection as sparks will fly !
I had to cut end of an rsj in the summer in a bit of a hurry for roofers I had been using a mag drill all morning drilling bolt holes so must have been coated in cutting oil !
Next thing I know got a roofer rubbing my legs looked down trousers were on fire !
Your lucky the roofer was there rubbing your legs just as your trollies set on fire.
 

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