Under pressure dum d-d-dum dum... Options for high water pressure? | UK Plumbers Forums | Plumbers Forums
Guest viewing is limited

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

Discuss Under pressure dum d-d-dum dum... Options for high water pressure? in the UK Plumbers Forums area at Plumbers Forums

Messages
91
Hi all

I've got a lot of plumbing work coming up in the house soon and had a plumber visit yesterday to quote. Whilst here he checked the water pressure and said it is one of the highest he has seen, at 8 bar. I've roughly calculated the flow rate before and it came out at 30L per minute.

The house will have a standard shower (oil boiler, NOT combi) and an electric shower.

He said it would be best to put in a regulator after each stopcock (the parts of the house seem to be fed separately). Just wanted to check that you guys agree? Are there any disadvantages to reducing the pressure?

Many thanks
 
Are you going unvented also pick one water main which ever is the best and cap the other one off
 
Keep it high...switched from 4 to 8 bar by removing restrictor on main isolation value....best thing ever for great showers...While I was at it, I also created a new pipe work structure to allow priority cold flow to heaters and then added a secondary flow circuit (cold) that could be restricted if required...but have not needed to switch it on.
 
Keep it high...switched from 4 to 8 bar by removing restrictor on main isolation value....best thing ever for great showers...While I was at it, I also created a new pipe work structure to allow priority cold flow to heaters and then added a secondary flow circuit (cold) that could be restricted if required...but have not needed to switch it on.
I'm still convinced your problem with very poor flow was that your pressure regulating valve wasn't working properly.

Did you ever try the effect of 4bar setting with a NEW valve, out of interest? Where I am currently, pressure is regulated to 2.5 Bar and flow is still very good.
 
Many thanks for the replies. Seems the consensus is to have it reduced as the plumber suggested. It does make sense. I guess one of the reasons I asked is because he said the pressure was so good and he wished he had such pressure. Plus, we live in a culture where more is usually better! So it felt like we had a good thing we were then choosing to reduce. But now I understand it better I can see why.

We don't use the hose often in the garden, but when we do will it give out less water after the PRV is installed?

Are you going unvented also pick one water main which ever is the best and cap the other one off

I'm no expert so forgive me if I'm wrong! But I think the main house is vented... There's a water tank in the loft and a cylinder in the airing cupboard. RE: Choosing one and capping the other... I'm not sure how easy it would be or whether it would be necessary. To gain access to the pipes would require digging up at the front of the house. Also, the barn attached to the house - which is what gets the separate feed - just has/will have a small shower room. We don't need a hot water tap in there, so just cold water and an electric shower. Running hot water into there would be quite expensive and disruptive I'd imagine. It's around 20 metres as the crow flies, so god knows how far when you put in the twists, turns, ups and downs.

Have you considered that, in fitting a pressure reducer, another unregulated plumbing system bites the dust?

That's very good! So long as the water doesn't want to break free, I'll be happy.

Thanks again to one and all for the input
 
I'm still convinced your problem with very poor flow was that your pressure regulating valve wasn't working properly.

Did you ever try the effect of 4bar setting with a NEW valve, out of interest? Where I am currently, pressure is regulated to 2.5 Bar and flow is still very good.
What I did learn from this was that its all about giving priority flow. I was fortunate to be able to create an entire new piping system and because pipe and fittings are so low cost, I had the luxury of experimentation. For each design change, I measured operational performance (showers) by flushing toilets and turning on cold basin taps while the shower was running. My design criteria was all about comfort in the shower. Having made sure that cold water taps and toilets were not effecting the shower, I then installed a new isolator valve on the mains supply (the blue pipe inside the house). I could then experment opening and closing the valve (restricting flow) while using the same shower experiment. My current working pressure is 6.5 and static is 8. Prior to this it was 6 static and 2.5 working.
 
What I did learn from this was that its all about giving priority flow. I was fortunate to be able to create an entire new piping system and because pipe and fittings are so low cost, I had the luxury of experimentation. For each design change, I measured operational performance (showers) by flushing toilets and turning on cold basin taps while the shower was running. My design criteria was all about comfort in the shower. Having made sure that cold water taps and toilets were not effecting the shower, I then installed a new isolator valve on the mains supply (the blue pipe inside the house). I could then experment opening and closing the valve (restricting flow) while using the same shower experiment. My current working pressure is 6.5 and static is 8. Prior to this it was 6 static and 2.5 working.
If I understand you correctly then, you didn't actually try a new pressure reducing valve - you replaced it with a stopcock?
 
If I understand you correctly then, you didn't actually try a new pressure reducing valve - you replaced it with a stopcock?
reducing pressure was never the goal, I have no appliances that could not handle less than 10 bar and the pipe work had long runs of plastic pipe so very few joints. I did create a separate cold water feed that has a reducer on it but never needed to use it. All basins, toilets and appliances now have 10mm pipe to them
 
reducing pressure was never the goal, I have no appliances that could not handle less than 10 bar and the pipe work had long runs of plastic pipe so very few joints. I did create a separate cold water feed that has a reducer on it but never needed to use it. All basins, toilets and appliances now have 10mm pipe to them
I realise that. So you never tried a new pressure reducing valve. Thank you.
 
Hi all

Someone recommended I call Dwr Cymru about this - which I did - and so a chap recently visited. I was out at the time, but he did whatever he needed to do and I got a call a couple of days later saying they are happy to do the work and install a pressure reducing valve. Great news! Dwr Cymru aren't able to give me any details regarding the work. I'm hoping that the company actually doing the work will get in touch before they come, but not certain they will.

So I wondered if anyone knows what I should expect?

  • Will they have to dig up the ground around the meter for the installation?
  • Do you think they'll ask what pressure I want it to be reduced to or just do what they think is best?
  • Is there an ideal pressure?
  • Do you think the pressure will be adjustable after the installation?

Huge thanks for the help
 

Similar plumbing topics

  • Question
That's what I'd do unless I could think of a...
Replies
3
Views
2K
  • Question
How high is the hill 40m as that will add 4...
Replies
2
Views
497
  • Question
Definitely worth checking the clipping...
Replies
1
Views
705
  • Question
Hi, We have a large Heatrea Sadia unvented hot...
Replies
0
Views
674
  • Question
Thanks for the responses, I'll be on the phone...
Replies
5
Views
851
Back
Top