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paulmul

Hi all

My name's Paul and I'm in County Antrim, N. Ireland. I'm pretty good with pretty much any DIY stuff bar plumbing! I've just joined the forum in the hope that some of you experts will be able to advise me on what might be causing some strange behaviour in an underfloor heating system in the house I bought recently.

The house was built in 2007 and then with the property crash it lay in a watertight but unfinished state until we bought it in Aug 2013. The builders finished it off for us but the heating system was largely present since 2007 (though unused). Upstairs is radiators and all seems fine there; downstairs is underfloor heating (water based within concrete floors) all running off an oil boiler that was installed new in Aug 2013.

We're not too impressed with the underfloor heating as it seems to use a ton of oil but the house never really seems quite warm enough downstairs and it behaves somewhat strangely! It is a pretty big house (3360 sq ft) so it may just be that moving from somewhere a lot smaller I'd underestimated the oil usage. I don't have an oil flow meter etc but have used approx 600-700 litres in the past month for example and it hasn't been particularly cold. However I'm concerned about a couple of things that may be causing or contributing to the issues

The system is Pulsar Infloor with 6 stats controlling 14 loops/actuators. There's a Horstmann H37XL timeclock controlling the whole system (zone 1 - underfloor downstairs; zone 2 - radiators upstairs; zone 3 - hot water). There was originally a Pulsar 'Alpha-Basis' wiring centre but I replaced this with a Heatmiser UH3 wiring centre in an attempt to cure the first problem below. It made no difference but it's what's still there at the minute. All the Pulsar stuff was bought in 2007 and sat in boxes in the house until second fix work took place last summer

Firstly, the whole system switches off for around 1 minute every 20 minutes. We'd both the plumber and the electrician who did the second fix work on the system back to look at it recently and neither could explain this (we don't know who the first fix guys 6 years ago were). In fact the system goes through a loop continuously every 20 minutes. 2 rooms aren't in use at the minute, so we've those 2 turned to frostguard on the stats and the other 4 stats are set to 17 degrees (utility), 18 degrees (hall), 21 degrees (kitchen) and 19 degrees (sunroom). The 20 minute cycle happens whether the time clock has the heat currently on or currently off. It is as follows:

- All 4 zones that have stats turned up are calling for heat
- Zones stop calling for heat one by one
- Whole system stops for 1 minute (turning any stats FULLY up during that period doesn't reactivate the system, pump stops, power to boiler goes off unless upstairs/hot water is active).
- System comes back to life with all 4 zones calling for heat at once when it initially starts up again.

This is really puzzling me as I've thought it through in detail and the only components I could lay blame on were the wiring centre or the time clock (as it's a 'whole system' problem so can't just be one dodgy stat). I replaced the wiring centre as mentioned above with no change to the behaviour. I'm dubious that a timeclock could be at fault as it doesn't matter if the heating is on constant, off, or timed. The "loop" still happens. If the timeclock is on, when the 'pause' occurs the power light in the wiring centre is still lit showing the heat is still "on". I should also point out that if we have our stove lit in the sunroom (therefore generating a load of heat separate to the underfloor system) the stat for that zone sometimes doesn't call for heat when the system is at the start of its loop (which makes sense when that room is so warm already).

What doesn't make sense is why the system stops every 20 minutes and why (with no stove running), all 4 zones magically need heat together at the exact same moment even when the heat isn't on?! Can anyone shed any light on what may be going on here?

Second issue I hope is simpler and may just be a draught or dodgy stat(s). The sunroom and kitchen are open plan to each other and generally feel like they're around the same temperature as each other. As mentioned we've the sunroom stat at 19 degrees and the kitchen at 21. That's because I've noticed the kitchen zone rarely calls for heat for more than a minute or so at the start of the loop I describe above, but the sunroom typically calls for most of the time. I'd hoped by setting the stats to different temperatures that I'd work around this imbalance, but it has made no difference (kitchen still rarely on, sunroom still nearly always on). Does that sound like the sunroom stat's getting a draught from somewhere (nothing is noticeable to me), one/both stats are faulty, or something else? Just seems a bit weird.

Finally, a couple of things that may be useful for info. I've done extensive checking of the stats and loops and am sure that the stats are controlling the loops in the areas they're in as expected. (A couple of them were initially incorrect but these have been corrected.) Also the overall TRV (if that's what it's called when not on a radiator!) for the underfloor heating has the temperature at around 40-45 degrees on the inlet side of the manifold. The outlet can be anywhere from 30 to 50 degrees (yes, the gauge on the outlet sometimes shows a warmer temperature than on the inlet side!). I've tried running the system constantly and on timed periods but regardless these 2 problems are always present. I've also switched the main switch for the whole heating system off and back on several times (trying the equivalent of a computer reboot) to no avail. The boiler is a Warmflow B120HE in case that's relevant.

No problems with the radiators or the hot water, so would love to be able to say the same about the underfloor heating!

Thanks for reading this lengthy post and thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

Paul.
 
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firstly can you take a picture of the UFH manifold and also of the stats. can you also take a picture of the boiler and associated pipe work.
 
Also list what the stats are?
what flooring is installed over the underfloor?
have floor probes been installed?

did you re wire the wiring centre as it had been previously?
or did you modify it?
 
Well thats an easy read. Top marks to anybody who got past the second line, I didnt.

Might be easiervto get somebody in to take a look.
 
Sorry, seems the formatting got messed up. I've fixed it and am trying a different browser this time!

Thanks for the replies. I have had the plumber and electrician who did 2nd fix back. Neither of them could suggest anything. I might try a fresh set of eyes though thought I'd try this forum first in case it was a known problem.



[SUP]
[/SUP]Also list what the stats are?
what flooring is installed over the underfloor?
have floor probes been installed?

did you re wire the wiring centre as it had been previously?
or did you modify it?

Stats are all the same - Pulsar Infloor AR-S2 - as pictured.


Some rooms still have the bare concrete floors but most have laminate floor with a 3mm underlay that's specified as suitable for use with underfloor heating (I think it's a vapour barrier but non-insulating).


I've not heard of floor probes so I assume I don't have them.


I rewired the wiring centre in the equivalent way to the way it was originally. There didn't seem to be any other way to do it. Power in, timeclock in, boiler out, pump out, then the zones with input from each stat and output to the actuators for the loops in that zone.


 
Photos are attached. Note that the pipe above the expansion vessel is the mains water coming into the house (just happens to be in shot). Likewise the wiring above the boiler isn't related to the boiler (other than the conduit to the left).



Thanks

Paul.

 

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My money goes on blending c
Valve cack. Trv type manifolds are utter rubbish . Take off the trv head bet after two hours it's hot. Also massive load. 22mm primaries? Boiler looks nice.

Your return running at 35 o tad low? Turn trv up to 4 or 5
 
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I dont like the angle of the flue on the boiler, but that could be an optical illusion with the photo.
 
the flow and return temps look a little low on the manifold. Do you know how far apart the loops are? i hope they're close together with it being 12mm pipe!
 
My money goes on blending c
Valve cack. Trv type manifolds are utter rubbish . Take off the trv head bet after two hours it's hot. Also massive load. 22mm primaries? Boiler looks nice.

Your return running at 35 o tad low? Turn trv up to 4 or 5

I turned the TRV up to 4. A couple of hours later the inlet is at 46 degrees and outlet is at 42. 35 is lower than it usually sits so I'm guessing the moment at which I took the photo was just before the boiler kicked in or just after a loop opened that had been off for a while, adding cold water to the system?

Are primaries the main pipes to & from boiler? If so, yes, 22mm.

Also thanks for confirming what I suspected that at least one component of the system was crap!! The manifold was installed in 2007 and I've no idea who did it - it wasn't the plumber who did all the work in summer 2013.
 
I dont like the angle of the flue on the boiler, but that could be an optical illusion with the photo.

I think (hope!) it's the photo. It's basically out the top of the boiler then straight out through the wall at 90 degrees.
 
the flow and return temps look a little low on the manifold. Do you know how far apart the loops are? i hope they're close together with it being 12mm pipe!

Thanks - the plumber had said to set it to about 40 degrees on the inlet. As mentioned above 35 is lower than average on the outlet. I've turned it up a bit now.

I should also clarify the "20 minute pause" thing is EXACTLY every 20 minutes from the time I first turned on the main switch to the whole heating system. It's not that the system reaches its preset temperatures every 20 mins or so. I can set my watch by it. 10 past the hour, half past, 10 to the hour..... I'd love to understand what's going on with that!
 
the flow and return temps look a little low on the manifold. Do you know how far apart the loops are? i hope they're close together with it being 12mm pipe!

Sorry, should also have answered the question! I'm not sure as the loops were laid 5 years before I first saw the house. The floor DOES get warm (more noticeable in some rooms than others). When walking around without shoes on it feels fairly consistently warm to my feet which I hope is a positive sign.
 
that is a positive sign. Any idea on how long each loop is? if your flow meters weren't set up correctly you might be wasting a bit of energy but not massive amounts.

how much does 700-800L of oil cost?
 
Again, no, I'm not sure as I effectively inherited it some years after the loops were installed. Some must be reasonably long as the whole house is 3360sq ft but downstairs is bigger than upstairs (sunroom and utility have nothing above them), so must take a reasonable amount of loop just to reach some parts. Flow looks to be set a bit higher on the ones further away - is that would you'd expect?

Oil was 57p/litre the last lot I got in December (£513 for 900 litres). I can't get mains gas where I am as I'm in a fairly rural location off the mains gas network.
 
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Once the floor is warm and house in use your consumption can be measured.

Reads like flow and return wrong way round on manifold.

That's why heat miser pipe stat thinks it's all satisfied .
 
Once the floor is warm and house in use your consumption can be measured.

Reads like flow and return wrong way round on manifold.

That's why heat miser pipe stat thinks it's all satisfied .

The flow is USUALLY reading a higher temp than return. Sometimes return shows higher temp by 5 degrees or so. No idea why! Right now it's 43 on flow and 40 on return.
 
Do you get water underneath the flue outside?

I've never noticed any, no. There's a separate pipe that takes the condensate to a drain. I've never seen any water anywhere other than there.
 
Just a quick update to thank everyone who replied and to let you know I've managed to resolve both problems.

Firstly, I discovered my stats are just labelled "Pulsar Infloor" which I assume was the company that supplied them. After some online investigation, I now know that they're actually made by Mohlenhoff and are the Alpha Standard model. I'm no expert but they seem to be a fairly cheap/basic stat (e.g. £21.99 on Amazon).

I did some diagnosis with a multimeter and determined that during the 20 minute pause, the stats were still receiving power but cutting off their output regardless of how high they were. All seemed to be on the same cycle, which I assume was because they were all powered up at the same moment by the main switch for the overall heating system. I temporarily hardwired the wires for one of the stats so that the stat was bypassed. The wiring centre showed that zone remained active while all the others did their pause for a minute or so. Next I bought a couple of Heatmiser DT stats (which I'd looked at anyway before any of these issues as they're much easier to control in that you can see the current room temperature). I fitted one in my kitchen and confirmed that, like bypassing the stat, if it was set high enough to be calling for heat, that zone no longer paused.

Next I went to replace my sunroom stat (the one that seemed to call for heat continuously unless I set it lower than the adjacent kitchen one). On removing the old stat, I immediately noticed that there was a bad draught coming down the conduit carrying the cables to the stat. Little did I realise the stat was being cooled from behind! I sealed around the cables at the end of the conduit, stopped the draught, fitted the stat, and left it all running for 24 hours.

I now have a kitchen and sunroom at a comfortable 20 degrees, and those zones heat when they need heat and stop when they don't. No more 20 minute cycling.

I've ordered 4 more Heatmiser DT's to replace the remaining Alpha stats. I've no reason to suspect I won't then have a system that works exactly like I'd expect it to!

Again thanks for your suggestions and advice.

Paul.
 
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