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mikegas

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Plumber
Gas Engineer
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i was servicing this unvented cylinder today, on testing the t+p water appeared from the plinth at the side so i removed the plinth and found the d2 pipework connected to overflow pipe! this was also where it was leaking, there are a few other issues no tundish on prv discharge, trap within 300mm on d2, i failed it due to these issues but when i tested the t+p discharge before i even noticed it leaking it backed up and caused the tundish to spill, my question is would you have failed it on this basis alone without the other faults or just note it as a default and advise to have it rectified i dont do many but this is the first one ive had thats spilled, cheers



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May sound like a silly question, but what do you do to "service" an unvented cylinder? I have never heard of one being serviced before.
 
its more of a safety check but clean strainer check operation of t+p prv, expansion vessel pressure, flow rate, pressure, d1/d2 pipework
 
and sign the customers service schedule so they keep the 25 year guarantee on the cylinder.
 
depends - if it just spills out a bit I'd recommend customer gets it seen to & note it on the service paperwork.
If it's totaly blocked (i've never had this) I'd tell them it needs sorting immediately and note this on the paperwork - at the end of the day its their decision
 
So if it was the latter, when it asks is this appliance safe to use on the service sheet you would tick no?
 
this one wasnt totally blocked but when you opened the t+p fully it backed up and spilled quite a bit, when it asks is this appliance safe to use on the service sheet would tick no in this situation?
 
May sound like a silly question, but what do you do to "service" an unvented cylinder? I have never heard of one being serviced before.

its a requirement to check these every year, and must include checking safety devices, also on some cylinders there isa sacrificial annode which needs to be checked every year and replaced when (depending on model) it has decreased in size through corrosion, or has enlarged over a certain diameter due to the "barnacles" on it, if not done then the annode will cease to protect the cylinder and it will eventually corrode and burst cascading 200l of very hot water out the cupboard, down the stairs and out the door, followed by an unending supply of cold water only to be noticed when the ground floor fills up to the level where it spills over the threshold plate of the door to the garden when the punter is on holiday
 
would you fail one if the tundish spilled?

i would as it could lead to very hot water spilling out onto the floor which is a burn risk and also a fabric damage risk as the water will cause damage to floors, celings and electrics
 
how do you test the t+p wire the stats out and hope i lifts ?

H&S dont like this kind of test in case the "next line" of defence doesnt work and someone ends up getting injured, we used to demo this type of thing during unvented training but its banned now in case someone gets hurt
 
ive now got the job of putting the cylinder right well cylinders because it turns out that all 6 flats have been run this way, im going to use the hepvo tundish adaptor kit can anyone tell me what fitting i need to get me from the hepvo to 22mm copper and from this into 4" waste, is there a strap on boss that will take 22mm copper?
 
Why go to copper from the HepVo tundish. The tundish adaptor will fit 32mm waste pipe and that goes straight to the soil pipe.
 
hepvo valve goes onto 32mm waste pipe. push fit, you cant use solvent weld.
 
ive not traced the current d2 yet but im just thinking there might not be enough room to run 32mm down the same route as the current d2 if but if there is then i will use 32mm polypropylene
 
H&S dont like this kind of test in case the "next line" of defence doesnt work and someone ends up getting injured, we used to demo this type of thing during unvented training but its banned now in case someone gets hurt
that was sarcasm kirk iwas pointing out that in actual fact your not realy testing the t &p only that the pipework is sufficent ,opening it manually doesnt prove it will work on temperature rise as the temp sensetive part could have failed bit like turning a roomstat manually isnt always a good indicator of it working on temperature change
 
that was sarcasm kirk iwas pointing out that in actual fact your not realy testing the t &p only that the pipework is sufficent ,opening it manually doesnt prove it will work on temperature rise as the temp sensetive part could have failed bit like turning a roomstat manually isnt always a good indicator of it working on temperature change

yes obviously you can only test the t+p by manually opening it as per mi
 
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