"URGENT" Combo Boiler PCB HELP..... | Boilers | Plumbers Forums

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

"URGENT" Combo Boiler PCB HELP.....

Post thread

Discuss "URGENT" Combo Boiler PCB HELP..... in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
1

12345678@9

Urgent
I have a Alpha CB28, 5yrs old, not working since new year’s eve...
No HW and CH is not working, A & B Neon light Flashing at same time...
Plumper came around the other day and identified the fault due to the fan was not working, as no power is received from the PCB, using a tester screwdriver no power picked up from the fan slot in the PCB.
Plumper told me PCB needs to be replaced, went out and got the price for us = 210 ex vat + £60 labour....Told him we will get back to him...
ss102208.jpg

Using the spec I found out it requires a 1.025576 PCB, (Alpha CB28 PCB 1.025576 - AK Boiler Spares), after digging deeper found this deal £150 cheaper. (ALPHA PCB 1.025576 (CB RANGE) on eBay (end time 10-Jan-11 22:06:58 GMT)).


I really need your help, after opening up the boiler to compare the two I found out it’s a bit different, i.e the black rectangle bar kinda thing on the PCB next to the red square thing on the eBay picture it say V1.00 and on the PCB in the boiler it says V2.01.



Please can you tell if this one is suitable for my boiler….
 
For a start you need a multimeter to properly test for current, a neon isnt really that accurate. That is the right part number for the pcb, the old one was 1.017118 which was replaced by 1.025576 which would explain why it may look a little different. Manufacturers often alter the design of parts over the years to improve them if there have been a few issues.
 
Welcome to the forum :) If you have doubts about your plumbers/gas engineers honesty or believe he may be overcharging you then get a 2nd opinion/price.

Please do bare in mind that you are paying for the engineers expertise which means you do not have the worry of buying the wrong part or having to wait days for it.

The link on ebay is from a seller with zero feedback, so I personally would not take the gamble.
 
Last edited:
@quality ?
@mfgs are you 100% sure this PCB is compatible with my boiler?
 
bronzino said:
Welcome to the forum :) If you have doubts about your plumbers/gas engineers honesty or believe he may be overcharging you then get a 2nd opinion/price.

Please do bare in mind that you are paying for the engineers expertise which means you do not have the worry of buying the wrong part or having to wait days for it.

The link on ebay is from a seller with zero feedback, so I personally would not take the gamble.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I was just wondering if anybody know for 100% sure its compatible with mine, then... you know £150 cheaper...
 
i will wish you good luck because you will need it, keep us posted on the final bill please
 
get the dude to do the work ..get it done right .what will u do with all your spare time when its sorted ...lol
 
check the flow switch near the pump . bridge the wires out.make sure power is off. the turn on . if it fires up .replace flow swich.20/ 30 pounds.
 
i hate the internet customers spend two hours searching to find parts cheaper than your local supplier then call you a rip off then when the parts theyve ordered turn up faulty or wrong they dont want to pay you for your time
had this recently with a boiler i gave the price to supply and fit and customer asked me how much if they supplied the boiler
we agreed a price with them suppling
when i got there there was no flue of clock with the boilerso i said they would have to go and get them local or i would supply
they agreed to let me supply
when i gave her the bill it worked out to more than the original estimate as the flue and clock were obviously more exspensive bought as spares rather than as a package and i added my time to go and get them she wasnt happy but eventually paid up
 
I went to the dentist last week and they wanted £190 for a white filling, i asked how much it would be if I supplied the materials and they asked me to leave :)
 
The black rectangle thing is with about 24 - 32 legs and three electronic capacitors below it is probably an eprom chip which contains the settings for that particular board. Eproms are individually programmed and the V number refers to the program variant. the board that failed has the later version of the program. If its mounted on a socket its plugable & you can change it or take it out and get it copied onto another chip.
It seems as though the switching circuit or relay to the fan has failed but it could be an electrolytic. To test the electrolytics you'll need an ESR tester. If you take the chip out make sure you're earthed.

Since there's no circuit data and you have no electronics knowledge, nor an ESR tester, nor a DMM get it changed by a plumber or plumper and grin and bear it. At least the boiler should work afterwards
 
stevetheplumber well done mate !!!!

Now I can see this poster will face more charges then he thought, but will he learn from his mistake NO !!!
 
Fair Play Stevetheplumber, I had some idiot who supplied a boiler bought from wickes cheap ,it had been dropped from a fork lift , some people think they know best ,my advice is let them get on with it, I had a mate who thought he was well sussed with bmw cars and spent over £600 on bits not to mention loads of labour from another mate. all that agg for a blocked filter LOL
 
I can confirm that I have the same boiler and in fact the identical problem.

I can also confirm that the part you are looking for is NOW: 1.025576 which is the PCB that is the replacement for all HE CB25/33 models.

If you feel the cost was high you could work your way through every individual component to find the faulty ones.

HOWEVER this is time consuming (EXTREMELY) and you would be well to get the replacement.

Also a word of note, having replaced mine I found that the cause of the old ones demise was in fact a faulty "AIR PRESSURE SWITCH" which is located at the top of the boiler and also needed replacing.

Goodluck if you need further help you can email me direct.
 
If its a CB range of a Alpha boiler, you will replace most of the parts at some stage.
 
yet another custard who picks the brains of trained people then tries to do it for nothing,i pay for fuel,insurance,tools,registration etc etc etc and for what?so i can spend my time advising these people of the fault and cure and then they shop around telling the engineers the fault,sorry these people make my blood boil.rant over.
 
if i was you I would replace the flux switch first on your pcb ,!!! which in most cases saves my customers to buy the hall pcb
 
looks like you put as much thought into your name as you did o forget it i really cannot be bothered
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top