Water Pressure Question

[paul777]

I've just had a new bathroom suite fitted. Previously the flow from the hot water taps in the bathroom was fine, and there has never been an issue with it. However, since the new bath and basin have been fitted the flow starts fast for about 5 seconds, but then slows down. Its still a reasonable enough flow speed but it is considerably slower than it used to be. If you turn the tap off, then on again, the same happens. There is nothing wrong with the cold water supply. Also, the hot water tank was drained during installation.

The person who fitted it is due back today so I'm going to mention it to him, but I'm curious to find out what the issue is.

 

[Avatar]

got a hot water cylinder?

probably they fitted high pressure taps (presuming you have a low pressure system)

Also isolation valves, tap flexis and anything that reduces the bore of the pipes can reduce the pressure when you have a bad output from the cylinder . . .

Check the taps first - then the pipework. If it is 22mm, then you should keep it like that all the way mate!

You can get full bore 22mm isolation valves as well.

 

[paul777]

Yes, I have a hot water cylinder.

Are low and high pressure systems a new thing? Its just the system thats in place, as well as the old bathroom suite, has been there for at least 30 years.

Also, just tested the kitchen hot water tap. And the flow seems no different to how it was, however, when its running it occasionally splutters a little.

 

[Henno82]

if there is spluttering this could suggest some air is in the system

 

[WaterTight]

Reduction will either be 1) reduced bore pipe (from flexible hoses and/or improperly opened isolation valves) 2) air in system 3) debris in taps sucked into system from tank during drain-down

Look at the connections to the taps if you can. Are there isolators (screwdriver operated/ handle oprerated fittings on the pipe) and braided hoses? If so, turn isolator off (check tap doesn't run) and undo connector from tap (it may be hand-tight or you may need to persuade it with a tap spanner or small pair of grips.) Point the hose into a bucket and turn on the isolator. If the pressure is fine, it's either the tap (most likely, especially if quater-turn ceramic disc high-pressure style fancy affairs) or some debris caught in the mechanism of the tap (unlikely but have seen it happen)

If it's reduced even from the hose it's either the reduced flow through the hoses themselves (only likely to be a problem if your previous pressure was a bit pants anyway - if it was nice and forceful, unlikely,) or air in the system.

Your plumber should investigate these until a solution is found.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

got a hot water cylinder?

probably they fitted high pressure taps (presuming you have a low pressure system)

Also isolation valves, tap flexis and anything that reduces the bore of the pipes can reduce the pressure when you have a bad output from the cylinder . . .

Check the taps first - then the pipework. If it is 22mm, then you should keep it like that all the way mate!

You can get full bore 22mm isolation valves as well.

spot on avatar this is exactly the problem low pressure gravity system+numpty bathroom installers=poor flow

 

[Avatar]

Yes boys - the world seems to be full of numpty installers!

Although much of my work is fixing their bad plumbing, the market is simply just too saturated with these guys . . .

And the course providers keep pumping out new trainees.

I am thinking of moving my business into the commercial sector, which is usually out of reach of the monkeys - on the plus side it is much nicer not working for Joe public sometimes . . .

Nobody told me when I moved into plumbing that I was joining the ranks of a resented and reviled trade - christ we seem only one step away from a traffic warden sometimes!!!

 

[paul777]

Cheers for the help everyone. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[paul777]

All sorted. One of the valves wasn't fully open.