Water Tank Questions | Bathroom Advice | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Water Tank Questions in the Bathroom Advice area at Plumbers Forums

Messages
15
Hi All, my first post so be easy on me lol...

I am a fairly competent DIYer and can do plumbing, but there are some things that I need help with...

I went into my loft and looked at my cold water feed tanks (there are 2 of them). looking inside them has me doing some new work.. For example, the ball float valve fills at a very slow trickle, much much slower than it empties at. I checked the valve and the switch does not appear to move much. The same valve in the neighbouring Central heater header is much much better, so I will go buy a new one and replace.

When looking in the primary tank, (Each tabk gives 125 litres (27 gals) of usable water) there is a thin layer of sludge in the bottom. When looking in the secondary tank, there is what looks like white power floating on the top. For someone inexpericed, that looks awful.... Is it bad??

But....

The important bit that had me worried, was this secondary tank. It sits next to the primary tank, but 3 inches higher. The primary tank has the feed through the float valve, and 3 outgoing 22mm pipes... (1) to my en suite shower (2) to the bath tap (3) to the bottom of the storage tank in the airing cupboard. The secondary tank has nothing except a link into the primary, at the low point. So the primary fills, so does the secondary. But.. am I right in saying, that the water in the secondary tank has the possibility to go stagnant?... Ie.. Would it be better to put the float valve feed into the secondary tank, therefore, keeping the water into both tanks moving? I just dont know, mayeb it is all good the way it is..?
 
Last edited:
I think you have 2 cws tanks married together and a seperate f&e tank for you c.heating if this is the case I suggest you relocate the new ball valve to the tank that has no outlets to your water draw offs[taps and cylinder ] at the opposite end of the tank outlets so as to ensure an even distribution of your stored cold water dont forget to seal up the original ball valve hole good luck:) regards turnpin
 
As Turnpin says,fit new ball valve in other tank to allow correct water changes in tanks,also over flow should be in same tank as ball valve,while you are at it good idea to drain tanks down and give them a clean out

imho
 
I have move the float ball valve now, few elbows bit of extra pipe, cleaned the both cisterns. I managed to get a proper cistern plug from toolstation to blok the hole. Cleared all the sludge and white stuff out of both tanks, they are both now spic and span...
 
Well thanks guys. Although I did the changes last night, I decided not to turn on the water last night, but, wait until today, when, if there were problems, it was daytime and easier to sort quickly.

I turned the water back on today, and the new float valve filled the 2 tanks much much quicker than previously...

One thing I had noticed. I had to wait for the fill up, took maybe 20-30 mins, so as to see what level it all stopped at, and, maybe adjust the ball level accordingly.. but.. I noticed, when it got nearly full and the water flow for the fill was slowing down, it just kept going and was getting perilously close to the overflow. The one thing I noticed was, the wall of the tank, as the ball came to near its top, started to be sort of bent by the float ball lifting.. I did not like this, so, I went and put some support outside the tanks, under the copper feed pipe to make it all a bit more solid and then, I could control the ball level withour worry of it adjusting itself. :)
 
when fitting a new ball valve to a plastic tank it should always be fitted with either a metal plate or a heavy plastic reinforcing plate to prevent distortion to the tank. available at your plumbers merchants:)regards turnpin
 

Similar plumbing topics

Thanks for the reply, I followed your advice...
Replies
2
Views
1K
  • Question
Brilliant, thanks for your help
Replies
5
Views
1K
  • Question
Hi, We have solar panels for our hot water...
Replies
0
Views
652
Anyway, you can always increase the boiler...
Replies
16
Views
1K
Back
Top