Wet underfloor heatin | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Wet underfloor heatin in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

Rslee

I have a floor depth of approximately 120-140mm below finished floor level. The floor is block and beam and we are putting in Robyn's pipes in screed. Can you please tell me if the floor construction is correct going from top to bottom:

porcelain tiles
flexible adhesive
debonding layer
adhesive- what sort?
60mm screed with wet underfloor heating pipes in
50mm celotex
block and beam floor

Do you know how thick the adhesives and debonding layers should be?
Does anyone have any product recommendations for these layers - I know nothing so am starting from scratch as I need to tell the builder everything
Do you need to add anything to the screed to stop it from cracking - building inspector mentioned chicken wire as celotex is compressible layer?
Do fibres in screed prevent cracking? Is this special screed or do you just add something to it?
Do you need a membrane between the celotex and the screed? Builder is using xtratherm (it's actually not celotex) and has reluctantly agreed to use foil tape to seal the joints.
 
Starting from the bottom up.

Block and beam.
100mm insulation
Vapour barrier. ( visqueen)
Underfloor pipework.
50mm screed ( use anhydrate liquid screed) don't use a hand laid screed.
If it's not a large floor, use a gypsum based powdered tile adhesive and prime the screed with accrilic primer.
If it's a large floor, use a anti crack membrane like "ditra" use gypsum based adhesive to lay this, them flexible powder adhesive to tile.
You will have then a finished depth of 165-175mm finish.
You should use 100mm insulation, but may have to drop to 75mm.
 
Chalked solution is correct.

75mm of insulation probably won't meet Building Regs, so you will need a specialist insulation panel if needs to go thinner.
 
I just had a company design a layout for me in 100mm joists. It goes 25mm battens, 50mm insulation and then 25mm screed
 
I just had a company design a layout for me in 100mm joists. It goes 25mm battens, 50mm insulation and then 25mm screed

screed on a wooden floor?
 
I just had a company design a layout for me in 100mm joists. It goes 25mm battens, 50mm insulation and then 25mm screed

Depends upon what work is going on.. As OP is having a non-habitable room converted, it would be subject to building regs, as such the insulation requirements will be different.

Even so 50mm insulation is a lot of downward heat loss compared to current regs, it'll be cheaper to spend more on insulation, you'll need less ufh pipe as the pipe spacing will be greater and and you'll save forever on reduced fuel costs.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

  • Question
Op are you sure about the competence of the...
Replies
7
Views
3K
It redistributes the heat across the whole...
Replies
5
Views
2K
  • Locked
Depending on the build , your concrete may...
Replies
5
Views
1K
  • Locked
i would go with u heats recommendation yes it...
Replies
6
Views
2K
Back
Top