What type of 1-1/4 to 2 inch flexible pipe to use ?

[Giles]

What type of 1-1/4 to 2 inch flexible pipe to use ?

Hello. We are ignorant of plumbing components and procedures and hope you can help.

This ground source heat pump worked fine for three years. Then a leak occured at a joint in the input line where it enters the unit. The parts of the fixed joint cannot be completely done up, completely loosened or repaired without the heat pump unit being tilted. Tilting the heat pump is not easy.

In the photo below:
A= Brass 1-1/4inch outside thread pipe from unit,
B= Philmac female 1-1/4inch to male 1-1/2inch,
C= Philmac female 1-1/2inch elbow,
D= Philmac male 1-1/2inch end connector,
E= fixed 2 inch black plastic pipe from the ground (can be cut lower if necessary)

The answer, presumably, is to install a flexible pipe between A and a lowered D. This would obviate the need to tilt the heat pump unit.

a) Pressure on this closed loop is 2bar max. The liquid is 30percent vegetable oil in water. Any suggestions of what type of flexible pipe and fittings and where to get them from ?

(Googling produces a bewildering array of types from green corrugated plastic to armoured aluminium/brass)

b) Loctite 577 is used for the metal joints and metal to plastic joints. Putting plumbers' tape and plumbers' putty to one side, what is idiot and bullet-proof for plastic to plastic joints ?

Thank you.
Giles
(motto: "plumbing should be left to experts who can make and remake any joint without it inevitably leaking three days later ")

 

[oldplumber]

on these joints the system relys on O rings to provide a seal, dont try using jointing compounds etc. Why not renew all the components that are leaking and if you must have a flexi joint add in an additional straight union and mdpe pipe. Note none of the joints would normally be imperial 3 years ago but metric .

Why not follow your motto and call in a plumber?

 

[secret squirrel]

If I'm called to a job like this, I don't bother trying to find the leak. I do the easiest thing and replace the whole unit. Much easier in the long run.

 

[justlead1]

Hi. When fitting elbow / bends to situations other than a 90 degree transition. Use twin bends / elbows. That is one screwed on to the pipe upstand and the other screwed into the first using a nipple (or M and F bend elbow) this will allow the connection to accommodate the deflection you have. It will however need either the pipework or unit moving to account for the elbow/bend gain. Good Luck

 

[migoplumber]

you can get flexible hoses here, but havnt seen them above 1", will see tommorow if ican help more but will post tuesday

 

[Giles]

Thank you for your comments.

Old Plumber: I did follow my motto and called in a plumber. He looked at it and declined the job. I suspect he thought it was a Friday afternoon bodge job with all the putty and tape that had been used. Although he did tell us exactly what we should do to fix it. The other three leaks we rebuilt on his advice now work. This one cannot be worked on unless you take the others apart. And Murphy's law ensured it was the only one which leaked when we started up again !

Secret squirrel: "In the long run" I want to be able to replace that joint without having to break two other perfectly good joints just to tilt the unit. Anything else is like replacing the water pump on the old Mini Cooper (you had to take the whole engine out).

Justlead1: If I understand you, that might work. The twin elbows look like this: Z Are you still able to undo and do up the bits that connect to it without tilting ? Might work but where is slack coming from ?

Migoplumber: Thanks, 2 bar isn't very high pressure so maybe clear plastic might work.

Many thanks for your interest, all