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Hi,
I'm installing new combi taps on my bath

Swirl Period Deck-Mounted Lever Bath/Shower Mixer Tap | Bath Taps | NoLinkingToThis

Would this flexi hose be suitable - the inlet pipe is 21mm

Flexible Hose with Valve 22mm x ¾

cheers
Brendan
 
No flexi is best (eg hard pipe it in copper)

But if access is a problem/ you can't hard pipe it go for a good quality full bore with non ISO flexi and put a valve before the flexi

I only say this if you have to change the flexi / washer fails you need to drain down
 
Cheers both, sadly I'm a pensioner and good plumbers can be pricey (and elusive) so have to do work myself - copper piping would be great but, alas, beyond me. Will certainly get WRAS approved, non ISO etc flexi - many thanks
Brendan
 
No flexi is best (eg hard pipe it in copper)

But if access is a problem/ you can't hard pipe it go for a good quality full bore with non ISO flexi and put a valve before the flexi

I only say this if you have to change the flexi / washer fails you need to drain down
What is wrong with flexis ? Don’t quite understand why most people prefer hard copper ... nothing wrong with flexis. Is just the old way of plumbing in uk?
 
What is wrong with flexis ? Don’t quite understand why most people prefer hard copper . nothing wrong with flexis. Is just the old way of plumbing in uk?

flexis only last in reality 5 years before they start to get dicey
 
flexis only last in reality 5 years before they start to get dicey
Fair enough, but what is the reason that they get ruined after 5years ? We in Germany fit them in flexis and there are hardly any issues. Is that due to the difference of water ? I would think your warpter is a lot harder and has a huge amount of scale.
 
they split and dont have a clue
 
I'm pretty much a beginner here so please bear with me, but on the Screwfix site it doesn't mention whether a the speedfit flexi hoses are full bore or not (or WRAS) - the one I originally mentioned is 10mm but I see others at 13mm - is the 13mm full bore?
Also non-iso - does that mean it hasn't got an isolating valve?
Because space is very limited behind bath I want to use a pushfit flexi - does that rule out a full bore compression valve before it?
 
Re. compression valve would I get a length of 22mm copper and stick it in the valve then put the pushfit on that?
 
yes 13mm would be better

correct

no just need a piece of 22mm or 15mm between the flex and valve
 
flexis only last in reality 5 years before they start to get dicey

I've seen too many in my time that have burst and caused major flooding and colapsed ceilings. Mostley due to incorectly fitting it by the homeowner overtightening them, kinking and twisting them or installed under too much stress. The ones that come with a built in iso are useless when you need to change the flexy in the future thats why better off with a seperate one on before it, if you were wondering why.
 
Many thanks Darren, Shaun etc. - much clearer now. Bit scary about the bursting side of things, but not having the dosh to pay for a plumber I seem to have few, if any, options. As I plan to have a pushfit then the over tightening would only be a risk at the tap end I assume and that's much less risky than tightening with an olive - have I got that right? Oh and any advice on how to get a couple of short pieces of 22mm copper? As I said, money is short.
 
Actually I don't think of myself as a "pensioner in need" though I appreciate the thought. I have a basic pension though and need to be careful. I have to say though that during my forays into plumbing DIY I've found plumbers to be incredibly helpful - every time I'm in Screwfix and the man behind the counter can't answer my questions it's a plumber in the queue who steps forward to help - this always happens!
 
What is wrong with flexis ? Don’t quite understand why most people prefer hard copper . nothing wrong with flexis. Is just the old way of plumbing in uk?
On a stainless steel kitchen sink I prefer rigid, as it makes the taps mounting stiffer. On ceramic sinks it's less of an issue.
 
Hi Fixiflav, noted - sadly behind the bath in a VERY restricted space and the previous worker on the further flexi slathered some sort of bathroom sealant an inch thick, literally, all around it obscuring nut and pushfit, makes this a very different proposition. Could just get a proper plumber in but am haunted with the possibility that once I cut the sealant off all will be simple - trouble is who knows what I'll find when I take the sealant off?
 
Hi Fixiflav, noted - sadly behind the bath in a VERY restricted space and the previous worker on the further flexi slathered some sort of bathroom sealant an inch thick, literally, all around it obscuring nut and pushfit, makes this a very different proposition. Could just get a proper plumber in but am haunted with the possibility that once I cut the sealant off all will be simple - trouble is who knows what I'll find when I take the sealant off?
Hi brendanxx
I was only referring to SS sinks , which aren't very rigid. In any case, it's not a show-stopper, just doesn't feel as good in use.
In your case, are the existing taps rigid-piped? If so you presumably need to cut the pipes to insert flexis. Need to get the right fittings to connect the flexis - compression, pushfit etc. I would take your new taps to the shop and ensure the flexi fits the connector and the other end fits the taps.
I recently changed sink taps for one of my sons. New and old both had flexis, I hoped to re-use the old flexis as it made life easier at the pipe end, but the tap threads were different and I had to change the pipe fittings.
 
Hi brendanxx
I was only referring to SS sinks , which aren't very rigid. In any case, it's not a show-stopper, just doesn't feel as good in use.
In your case, are the existing taps rigid-piped? If so you presumably need to cut the pipes to insert flexis. Need to get the right fittings to connect the flexis - compression, pushfit etc. I would take your new taps to the shop and ensure the flexi fits the connector and the other end fits the taps.
I recently changed sink taps for one of my sons. New and old both had flexis, I hoped to re-use the old flexis as it made life easier at the pipe end, but the tap threads were different and I had to change the pipe fittings.
Another thing - you said inlet pipe is 21mm. I would measure it carefully, if it's an old system it might be 3/4", which is about 21.5mm OD if I remember right. Affects which fitting you need.
 
Just my two penneth.

Firstly, there are currently NO full bore flexis. NONE.
The 13mm referred to is the internal bore of the rubber hose but DOES NOT take account of the 8mm max internal bore of the very restrictive ends.
Hoses deteriorate for many reasons but WRAS approval makes ZERO difference to their life. WRAS approval does not determine fitness for purpose nor longevity. It simply assesses likelihood of contamination of the water supply from the materials used - end of.
Shaun's advice is simply the best.
Hard pipe (plastic is better than flexis) for longevity and reliability along with good quality valves to isolate.
 
While I would agree with the above, in practice, though, I wonder how great an effect on flow a flexi would have, and how much it matters? The taps themselves normally have a point where the bore is greatly restricted, and how often is a tap opened fully because we actually need the full flow rate?
That said, on a bath, we do tend to open taps fully, because we want the bath to fill quickly, but depends how much slower we are talking.
I've never carried out a direct comparison between the same tap on the same pipe with and without a flexi, but could be an interesting experiment...
 
Thanks a lot, lads, all very helpful and hopeful! I've now with some very loud swearing and battered hands (spanners slipping, stanley knife slipping while cutting off the 1" thick sealant gunk the previous idiot had smothered everywhere!) installed the nice new glittering taps. Couldn't have done it without your fine community! Cheers
 
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