Worcester Bosch Danesmoor 15-19, rads not heating up | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Worcester Bosch Danesmoor 15-19, rads not heating up in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
19
This installation dates from 2006 and is in my parents house to heat 10-12 rads but not hot water which is done by the AGA.
They have the boiler turned on all the time and use the temperature dial to turn it on and off.
It has got the seven day timer, but that is beyond my parents usually.
So the pump is on constantly at the lowest speed; 1.
They don't usually have that many rads turned on, maybe only five and only turn the boiler on in the evenings in the summer.
But now it is cooler they tried to use it this weekend.

I had to re-pressurise the system and bled all rads.

The two rads furthest in the circuit from the boiler do not get warm quickly, the ones nearest the boiler heat up really well but the last two get just above cold, they may heat up up over time but the ones nearest get so hot I turn the boiler off.
I feel the feed pipe which goes upstairs getting hot quite quickly but the return takes a little longer to warm.

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
 
When you say 2006 was that the boiler or whole installation?

The way you're describing it sounds like a one pipe system with a faulty pump or blockage !

Hard to say really.

Give us some more details on the heating system please
 
Well it is poor circulation, but that could have several causes. At 2006, if entire installation, then system should be in good condition if inhibitor was added and all piped correctly. So hopefully not dirt, but that needs checked. (Just noticed you say it is sealed system, so it is more likely to be fine)
Pump at number 1 setting is perhaps too low. Try it at number 2 and see if furthest rads heat better. The fact you state the furthest rads are slow to heat suggests that it could be pump speed or first rads are stealing most of the heat.
The system might therefore need balanced properly, as the nearest rads are the easier route and need lockshield valves basically nearly off on closest rads, gradually opening more on next furthest from boiler etc until last are full open.
Or the pump is failing partly and needs replaced.
Do they get the boiler serviced each year? A sooty oil boiler, or if the burner has low output due to blocked nozzle, faulty oil pump etc, will mean it won't be able to build up the heat in the system well.
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for your help, I would not have known otherwise what to do.
The installation was a complete system install by a builder and myself using standard TRVs.
No inhibitor was used as it is a sealed system.
No idea what lockshields valves are but I am sure Google can help.
Edit: I am pretty sure lockshield valves are fitted on teh other end of the rads from the TRV, but more than likely not adjusted, just open.
The pump does not seem to be making any loud or unusual noises.
The boiler is serviced annually in January and has been since installation.
This problem may have been going on for some time as I don't check the system at all.
No shortage of heat in the system.
 
Last edited:
Not surprised the system isn't balanced if you had a builder doing it.
The system also should have had inhibitor in it. Just because it is a sealed system, doesn't mean it doesn't corrode
 
When in 2006?

The last week in September and the first week in October.

Not surprised the system isn't balanced if you had a builder doing it.
The system also should have had inhibitor in it. Just because it is a sealed system, doesn't mean it doesn't corrode.

So how do you get it into the system with a filling loop?
Pour it into a new rad?
 
I should run cleaner through it first then flush it out before adding inhibitor if I were you.
 
I should run cleaner through it first then flush it out before adding inhibitor if I were you.

I would add that it would be better to have an expert carry out the flush and then balance the whole system correctly to make it work sensibly
 
Tweak the hot rads down. Turn the pump up.

I have done that and it improves the heating balance considerably.

Turned the boiler on to a dial position of 8 O' clock and the rads heated up nicely but the water got too hot so I turned the dial off to the 6 O' clock position and the boiler stopped.
No lock out lights.

So a thermostat it seems.
 
Wouldn't be the thermostat. If they are faulty they just allow system to overheat.
Still should work if turned a little lower, albeit often still hotter than it should be at that setting
 
You said at the beginning that the hot water is off the aga not the boiler? So adjusting the boiler temperature won't effect the hot water temperature.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

It worked! Brilliant and amazing! This has...
Replies
4
Views
1K
W
pcb issue so gas safe engy required sorry to say
Replies
1
Views
700
Hi ShaunCorbs, thanks for the reply. The pump...
Replies
2
Views
2K
L
  • Question
Add a valve to balance the hot water cylinder...
Replies
7
Views
816
Don’t know what he’s talking about as the...
Replies
1
Views
547
Back
Top